With its smart menu choices and rounded flavours, Feng Shuii in Green Park is all about familiar comforts, says Jeffrin Francis
Feng Shuii is hardly the name you expect of a pan-Asian restaurant. But then positive atmospherics do make for a complete dining experience. Covering all of two floors, the ground level has the warmth and open invitation of a college cafe while the upper terrace strata is more lounge-like with new-age decor and waterfall cascading along the walls.
Keeping in mind that not many people come to an oriental outlet for drinks, the menu has been designed with primary essentials such as beer, whisky, martini and classic cocktails. Yet within the limited range, the bartender did manage to surprise us with whisky sour and apricot.
There’s a lot of summer favourites going here in the form of the Thai papaya salad, Punjabi chowmein (thank god they distinguish it from the mainstream Chinese dishes), Indonesian fried noodles or mie goreng, Schezwan chicken dimsums, Thai spring rolls, sauted lemon grass prawns, lamb lion chop, Burmese khao suey, the Malaysian lamb rendang, the Thai massaman curry and mainland China’s favourite kung pao meal bowl. Since they are the usual favourites, we liked their fulsomeness and portions. Surprisingly, Punjabi chowmein with garlic sauce, perhaps not the greatest fusion sample, made for a huge comfort statement.
The starters came in the form of chilli tofu, marinated tofu deep-fried and cooked with chilli sauce, making for an absorbently luscious snack. The assortment of dim sums had interesting fillings of chestnuts, corn, steamed broccoli, beans, carrot and cauliflower in addition to mushrooms. Neat and subtle, each had its distinct flavour and pushed the envelope when it came to presenting a vegetarian bouquet.
We followed up Chinjabi chowmein with the roundedness of khao suey along with some hot garlic sauce. Now this is a dish so infectiously winsome that we did not feel like stopping. Khao sueys get made all over the city with their own flavour graphs but this one made the idea of eating out on a weekday worth something.
For dessert, we would recommend the darsaan or honeyed noodles with vanilla ice cream. All in all, a drop-by place that would warm you up at the end of a busy day.
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