To mark 15 years of couture, Gaurav Gupta debuts with his jewellery collection. By Team Viva

Designer Gaurav Gupta has been merging indigenous Indian construction and embellishment techniques with his idea of the future for the past 15 years. To celebrate the milestone, he interpreted the artistry and details of his couture language through creating and launching a fine jewellery brand under the name Gaurav Gupta Occasions Fine Jewellery at the FDCI’s Indian Couture Week 2019. It had capsuled themes that captured the distinct elements like the feather, forest and infinity collections.

The debut line consisted of 50 pieces, all of which were hand-made and created with precious stones and diamonds and set in white gold. What made the jewellery couture unique was the collaborative approach wherein each diamond was individually cut according to the design sculpting that Gaurav had imagined. The collection included  necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings and ear-cuffs which will be introduced as an extension of the brand’s 2019 couture collection and will be available exclusively through the Gaurav Gupta flagship couture store in Mehrauli.

On the ramp was global influencer and founder of Post for Change, Diipa Khosla, who was seen in an unending ethereal lehenga layered in ombre hues of champagne. The perfect accent for this was a special Liberation necklace, designed in the shape of wings, interwoven together, stylised to project the movement of a bird gracefully taking flight. Each piece of this necklace was set under a microscope, a delicate combination of rose cut and full cut diamonds — 8,000 pieces in all, created over the period of eight months. Its highlight was that every feather was scooped from the back to keep the necklace light. Actor Diana Penty strutted out in a sculpted mermaid-esque gown, fashioned in light organza in green-gray. She was accessorised with statement ear cuffs which had three woven and specially shaped diamonds.

Gupta talks about the jewellery collection and the idea behind these designs.

What made you decide to venture in the jewellery space?

I have always loved jewellery and this was something which was always on the cards for the brand as a next step in direction of growth. Ornamentation of a look is what inspired me to finally pursue this. I would always see brides wearing my creations, looking extremely beautiful and yet, it would somehow seem incomplete to me.  I think that’s what ultimately made me delve into designing my maiden collection.

What are the points of convergence, in terms of design, in jewellery and clothes?

Designing for me is a very personal process. I begin with some abstract thoughts and ideas and let my mind take the visionary wheel and conceive the whole thing. For jewellery, the starting point was my sartorial creations. I looked at them and ideated how best can I complement my own garments with diamond couture jewellery —  this was the only difference. Apart from this, everything else was remarkably same.

What was the inspiration for these designs?

The inspiration for the jewellery designs came from my obsession with elements and infinity of nature — birds of flight and freedom and the mysterious, endless depths of forests.

Who are the women that the jewellery is aimed at?

The jewellery is for confident, fearless and strong women who revel in the sense of elation and liberation. It is for the Indian contemporary global bride who enjoys finer details in her jewellery with respect to the cuts and design.

How often do you aim to bring out collections?

Well, our collections will be unveiled annually during the couture season. But, having to move along with the dynamics of time and to keep the momentum going, we will be adding jewellery suites throughout the year to our main collection — just something to offer more to our clients.

Coloured jewellery is a huge trend. What according to you are the ones that work for the skin tones of Indian woman?

I think, diamond jewellery looks very flattering on Indian skin tones. It not only brings out our rich complexion but also complements it really well. In diamond jewellery only, the use of coloured stones like rubies, emeralds, tanzanites and opals further accentuate the whole look.

Is the jewellery more for Indian or Western couture?

My jewellery can be paired very well with both Indian and Western couture.     

Photo: Pankaj Kumar