‘Enhance your features, don’t hide them’

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‘Enhance your features, don’t hide them’

Saturday, 13 April 2019 | Saimi Sattar

‘Enhance your features, don’t hide them’

Make-up artist Bobbi Brown is in the country to be a part of the first India Make-Up Show. She talks to Saimi Sattar about her journey

Mention Bobbi Brown and you know you have the mantra to look the best version of yourself. It is to the credit of the iconic make-up artist, author and former editor that the brand she launched at Bergdorf Goodman, the luxury department store based on Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan in New York City in 1991, has become much bigger than the person.

While the brand was sold to Estee Lauder in 1995, the products made by Bobbi, which suited a wide variety of skin tones and seemed to become a part of your own skin, lip colour and cheeks, have proved to be game changers. She has authored nine books about make-up and beauty that made it to the New York Times bestseller list. Along the way, she has worked her magic at international fashion weeks for over three decades. Considered as one of the top 10 make-up artists and beauty experts in the world, she has worked with some of the biggest names from the industry including Michelle Obama, Oprah Winfrey, Katie Holmes, the Sex And The City cast, Jessica Alba, Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell. Bobbi is visiting the country to be part of the first India Make-Up show.

How different is it to work with faces and skin tones that are Indian? What do you modify in your techniques?

I always start my work in the same way — looking for the right tone and texture for the skin. That will never change. You want to utilise products that work for the skin type and always start with a moisturiser. Hydrated skin is the key to your make-up looking its best.

What are the lip colours as well as blushes that work best with Indian skin tones?

The right lip colour for you is based on three things — your style, natural lip colour and skin tone. In general, the most flattering natural hue will either match or be slightly darker than your lips. Avoid shades lighter than your lips, especially those with gray or beige undertones, as they will make you look washed out. For blush, women with tan, warm skin tones should choose an almost plum shade that looks like a rich pink when applied. For deeper skin tones, redder shades that have bluish tones like cranberry leave a beautiful finish.

Earlier, Indians were looking towards the West in terms of skin colour and features but now they are more comfortable in their skin. What would you attribute it to?

I think it’s a combination of positive voices on social media and the beauty industry working to become more inclusive. There are more products, colour options, positive role models and unique voices with large platforms that are changing the conversations around beauty. Realism is in.

What does it take to be ranked among the top 10 beauty artists in the world?

A lot of hard work and determination. The advice I give is to be open. Be a sponge and absorb everything. Work hard — and for free if you have to — when following your dreams. Keep at it, don’t let failure stop you.

You’ve worked with some of the biggest names. What were some professional and personal lessons that you learnt along the way?

My biggest takeaway is to be nice to everyone. It’s as simple as that. You never know who you are going to meet or who knows who. Be kind, respectful and treat others how you want to be treated.

What is it that attracts you about India?

Everything. I have wanted to come to India for a long time. The people, the history, the culture, and of course, the food is something I’m looking forward to experiment with. I am open to experiencing all that India has to offer. Visually, the make-up worn by women in the country scales from over the top, to traditional, to a cleaner, more modern look. Most importantly, everyone looks so beautiful. Priyanka Chopra is someone I would definitely like to work with when in India. She is one of the most beautiful women on the planet and seems very down to earth and cool.

Why did you decide to collaborate with India Make-up Show?

It’s a unique opportunity to interact with artists and consumers in this type of setting. I am really excited to share my make-up techniques and more about my career.

Any more books on the anvil?

No new books right now but I just launched a new line of supplements. It’s a collagen-based collection, all designed to target your beauty concerns with one of the largest retailers in America. We have an effervescent tablet made with hyaluronic acid to boost your skin’s moisture. There’s a collagen and protein powder that benefits hair, skin, and nails and gives you energy. It’s all about supporting beauty from the inside out. I am back in the studio creating and curating content for my online magazine www.justbobbi.com as a working make-up artist. I am also creating content around my podcast Long Story Short. And I’m designing new experiences for our guest at our hotel, The George, in Montclair, New Jersey.

What do you keep in mind while doing the look for any person?

I always look at make-up as something that will enhance your natural features, not hide them.

Looking back at your journey, when you started out, did you have any idea that the brand would grow as big as it has?

I don’t think I could have predicted the career that I’ve had. If you had told me all of this when I was a little girl growing up in Chicago, I wouldn’t have believed you. I’m proud of the work I did in building my brand and the impact my work had on the beauty industry.

A lookback at some of the more iconic moments, in your opinion?

A few moments that always stand out for me are working with Naomi Campbell and Patrick Demarchelier on Naomi’s first Vogue cover in 1989. It happened to be my first Vogue cover too. I did a lot of beauty spreads with the magazine over the years that I am really proud of. There were also moments like doing make-up for L’Wren Scott’s show at London Fashion Week to doing Dr Jill Biden’s (former Vice President Joe Biden’s wife) make-up during the (Presidential) inauguration in 2009 and celebrating my 20-year anniversary at Bobbi Brown with a film by Bruce Weber. I’ll always cherish these moments.

(The show is on April 20 in New Delhi.)

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