Chef Sabad Qureshi at The Westin Gurgaon says that you win half the battle with presentation, ambience and service but you will end up losing the war if there is no taste. By Team Viva
Why did you choose Awadhi cuisine to be the specialised menu this month?
Awadhi cuisine is very special for me. I grew up relishing and learning it every day. My father, who also happened to be my first culinary teacher, was a master of it. The fragrance of dried herbs, roots, spices and flowers, the spluttering of charcoal in the specially-treated tandoor, kebabs resting on racks, layers of aromas, tastes, flavours and textures are what mesmerised me about this centuries old cuisine.
So naturally when I landed in the capital, a place where people take food very seriously, I was taken aback. While there was a lot of variety but the ‘Awadhi’ food that was being served was either very spicy and oily or the meat was undercooked. That’s not all, some places had changed the recipe entirely and given it a contemporary twist. I was disheartened to say the least. When my general manager, Rahul Puri asked me how I wanted to begin my journey at The Westin Gurgaon, without a second thought, I said let’s host a royal Awadhi festival to get those lost flavours back. He instantly agreed and that was the beginning of Shaam-e-Awadh. I made sure to include all the recipes that are extremely close to me, especially the ones which have been taught by my father.
Since the cuisine is influenced by the Mughal culture, how have you blended new ingredients to match it with the current palate and preferences of people?
Honestly, traces of Bhojpuri, Mughlai, Hyderabadi and Kashmiri culinary traditions what made this cuisine. The Nawabs of Awadh had in their kitchens khansamas from all these regions and hence, some influences are quite pertinent, however, Awadhi still maintains its own distinct character and is quite different from Mughlai or any of these regions. Awadhi and Mughlai cuisines are vastly different from each other. The former relies more on the dum style of cooking, which means cooking on slow fire. It is much lighter when compared to Mughlai and focusses more on spices.
The idea was to bring back the lost flavours of Awadh. While the Indian palate is extremely inquisitive, it is equally loyal. I did not tamper with these recipes as they form the core ethos of my legacy. In fact, I have tried very hard to stay as authentic to my roots as it was possible. The utensils like mahi tawa and biryani dum were procured by me along with my team all the way from Yahiyaganj in Lucknow. The spices were sourced from the Nakhas market there. Nothing makes a dish more authentic than the use of traditional ingredients sourced from local regional markets.
What is your signature dish on the menu and how did you come up with such an experiment?
One favourite dish? That’s like asking me to choose between my eyes or my ears. There are quite a few signature dishes of mine, which are a part of the Shaam-e-Awadh menu. Gilawat ke kebab, Panchphoran saag subzi, Nalli nihari, Gosht dum biryani and Shahi tukda all are classics and have the true Awadh flavours. But if you were to insist, then I would probably say Subz lifafa-e-khas, this one is slightly dearer. The kebabs came into being after a lot of vegetarian guests complained that they may never realise the “melt in the mouth” experience, which traditional Gilawat ke kebabs (non-vegetarian) are famous for. So after a lot of research and long standing hours in the kitchen Subz lifafa-e-khas came into being. Served just like the way Gilawat ke kebab’s are, on a warqi or an ulta tawa parantha. Today, even meat lovers are extremely fond of it. That’s the power of the cuisine, the flavour is the ultimate winner.
How have you explored the changes in the cuisine over the years?
(Laughs) My main objective is to keep the cuisine pure as well as authentic. I keep myself up to date with what is being offered in the market under the umbrella of Awadhi cuisine. Don’t get me wrong, I am not at all against innovation. It’s just sometimes, I feel, too much fusion, where the basic ingredients are compromised, is not something that I would like to serve. I strongly believe in the philosophy of keeping the taste and flavour of the food authentic but representing it in a contemporary manner to contend with current culinary trends.
It is also very important to take a note in the shift of eating pattern of the audience. Just blindly following trends is not the answer. You have to do adequate research to understand what your diners are expecting. They strive to find authenticity on the menu and are willing to travel an extra mile or pay extra bucks for dishes suffused with tradition and heritage cuisines. They are also extremely conscious about their health, are aware and want to know what goes into the preparation of each dish. However, interestingly, one of the main characteristics of the ‘health conscious’ is that they are not ready to compromise with the taste. It inspires us chefs to provide delicious appetizing food cooked using fresh produce in the healthiest manner possible.
How do you source your ingredients and vegetables?
Well, that’s a secret (Laughs). For the festival, like I mentioned, my team and I went to Lucknow and sourced whole spices and utensils from specialised local markets. Apart from that at seasonal tastes we take the brand name very seriously. We curate menus on the basis of what is in season so that the fresh crisp flavour of fruits and vegetables comes out. Also, I don’t like to cook with frozen items. So whatever is in the season is what goes into my menu.
I often oversee the procurement of meat, vegetables and fruits so that the best version of our food can be offered to our guests. I also travel extensively and bring back home any vegetable or ingredient that catches my eye. It helps me innovate and bring a wider range of choices on the menu.
How do you think such festivals promote such regional cuisines and bring it to the global culture?
I like hosting regional cuisine-based food festivals. It brings people, who share a similar palate, exchange stories and know more about a certain culture. People want to eat fresh with locally sourced produce as opposed to expensive imported canned products. Regional and sub-regional cuisines are likely to get more of a boost in times to come as more and more people are developing a palate which is curious, knowledgeable and well-travelled.
A picture on the phone cannot possibly capture its flavours.’ In the age of social media, do you think there is an injustice against chefs whose work is judged on visual appeal before the taste?
That’s true. With technology making the world a global village, visual appeal does play an important part. How a dish is presented does play an important role in taking it ahead. Every social media feed has become some sort of culinary magazine. The way I see it I think eating is a very sensory experience. Believe it or not, we ‘eat’ in more ways than one. Before we eat with our mouths, we eat with our eyes. Before our tongues have tasted it, our eyes have already judged it. This makes visual appeal just as important as the taste. It is the beauty of the plated dish that entices you to take a bite and actually taste it. It’s incredible how Awadhi food appeals to each of our senses. It looks good (eye), smells good (nose) and has a burst of flavours (palate). All are given equal importance which makes it adequately enticing.
I strongly believe that presentation leaves an impression but what gives the impact is taste. The will always have to be the flavour. When something looks so attractive, you kind of expect it to taste just as good. You win half the battle with presentation, ambience and service but you will end up losing the war if there is no flavour or taste in the dish.
(The Shaam-E Awadh festival at The Westin Gurgaon is on till August 18.)
