A delicious battle

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A delicious battle

Friday, 14 June 2019 | Jayesh Pawar

A delicious battle

Jayesh Pawar takes a trip to Gurugram and ends up in a restaurant with World War II-related decor and fusion food

Of late, Sector 29 market in Gurugram has developed a reputation of sorts among people of two kinds — those looking to grab a quick bite and those looking to party the weekend away. The area has evolved as a one-stop shop for all your hunger needs, simply because of the range of cuisines and dishes at various restaurants. While the guest is spoilt for choice, it has also ensured that the competition among restaurants is tough.

Now if you were to head there on a weekend, to hang out with friends, Decode Air Bar can certainly be one option that will attract your attention. The sprawling restaurant covers two floors with an indoor seating arrangement on the first floor and an al fresco one on the terrace. While its walls are done in shades of black and brown, an arc made of exposed bricks in the centre of the dining area on the first floor offers a contrast while transporting you to the World War II era. The restaurant is decorated with vintage paraphernalia like transistors, globes, hard-bound books, retro telephones and more with an entire wall covered with a green board which has a seemingly detailed war plan. Low lights and retro-styled furniture add to the ambience. The roof, on the other hand, is built in the European style which imparts a modern touch to the place. Events like live music and DJ performances make the restaurant a perfect place to spend some time with friends and family

Coming down to what I was here for — food — I decided to begin with the Thai styled chicken tikka. Served in an oval black tray, the presentation was appealing as the bright colour of the dish was in stark contrast with the background which made it visually attractive. At the first bite it was obvious that the chicken was cooked to perfection. The dash of coconut flavour added a sweetness which was perfectly balanced with the spices. The banana chips were like a cherry on the cake as they imparted a crunch to the dish.

Next, I travelled all the way to South India, gastronomically of course, by ordering a dish named Idli my style. Though the description made my mouth water, I regretted my decision as soon as the dish made its way to the table. The presentation of the dish was not up to the mark, nor was the taste. The idli was baked which made it fluffy but when I dug my fork into it, the sphere started to fall apart. The dish lacked spice as well as tanginess that is characteristic of rasam and the overall plain taste was far from what I expected.

On the chef’s recommendation, I ordered Cream cheese chicken tikka next. Although served on a basic round plate, the presentation of the dish was excellent as it had various colourful elements that were visually delightful. The marination of yogurt and cream imparted a tangy flavour to the chicken that was perfectly balanced by Indian spices. The flavour of peri peri dip served alongside the dish bound all the elements together into a perfect bite. The fourth dish was Pav bhaji cones, which was a nice twist to the much loved street food dish. It had a soft roll cone filled with provencal style bhaji topped with onions, tomatoes and white butter. While the presentation was really innovative, the flavours of the dish remained true to the original — a sort of best of both worlds.

The Chermoula marinated chicken skewers were next in line. The dish scored high on presentation. The chicken and pita bread were threaded on to the skewers and a bowl of hummus was placed below. The chicken was marinated in a flavourful spice mix, with a nice touch of paprika, and was really moist and juicy. The pita bread served alongside was thin and nicely toasted, while the hummus imparted a creamy texture to the dish.

To accompany my food, I decided to get something to drink but I wasn’t quite sure about what I wanted to order. I vaguely instructed the bartender that I would prefer one with fruit punch. To my surprise, he actually responded to my request and prepared something that was not on the menu and was customised to my taste. The drink was a perfect blend of flavours of different fruits.

While I wasn’t done savouring it, the Lamb rogan puff made its way to my plate. Served with salsa and sour mayo, the puffs arrived with a filling of lamb keema in them. The filling was well-cooked in Indian spices that blended perfectly with salsa and sour mayo.

Finally it was time for desserts and I ordered their speciality, the Wishing tree. This was practically art on a plate. The platter looked like a garden, with a tree at one end which had a chocolate bark and instead of leaves, had orange-flavoured candy floss. At the foot of the tree was some chocolate soil along with edible flowers. The rest of the plate had coconut ice cream with jaggery sauce, chocolate ganache, paan chutney gel and mango micro-sponge. The entire dessert was a melange of flavours and textures and all the elements came together and created an organic whole.

While the food scores full marks here as it is extraordinary, what needs some improvement is its service as the journey of a dish from the chef’s kitchen to the table seems quite long. The staff needs to be better trained and professional. But this place certainly warrants a visit.

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