To keep the dialogue about the handloom sector going, it is important to couple it with a business module so that the youth finds it relevant and cool, says Sakshi Sharma

It was in 1905 when several freedom fighters had gathered in the Calcutta Town Hall to protest against the partition of Bengal by the British government and started a Swadeshi movement that aimed at boycotting all British products and reviving the use of homegrown ones. It’s since then that the event marked itself in the history as the National Handloom Day. However, how much of it has been ever followed?

Designer Ritu Kumar, who was one of the panelists at a discussion at the Crafts Museum, questioned its theme, ‘Can our handloom heritage of the past be a springboard to the future?’ How will a day’s discussion help in reviving the handloom sector? Silence followed. She then stressed upon the reality of the handloom sector and asked people to talk logic rather than only working on sentiments. The reality is that handlooms are so costly, that they are not able to compete with other cheaper materials like synthetics and cotton, which makes it quite obvious for people to prefer other clothes over handlooms. They need a solid commercial and marketing policy. She said, “We need to find out a practical solution to this rather than merely questioning our lost traditions.” Giving an example of her 12-year-old project in Banaras to revive the traditions, she said that it was aimed at including the youth in restoring our values but nobody turned up signalling that they are not interested in their roots. Through this, she wanted to make the people aware about our rich heritage which makes our fashion aesthetics different from the rest of the world.

Sunil Sethi, FDCI chairman, answered her question. He said that it’s the reason that baby steps are being taken today and this day is being popularised with the #handloomeveryday on social media, “since the youth is most active there, these days.” Regular use would create markets, he felt. Pointing towards Padma Shri Ramkishore Chippa Derawala, who is a master-printer of the Dabu and Bagru prints of Rajasthan, he said, “Look at him, he took a vow 39 years ago that ‘I will only wear handloom.’ He is living by his words even today.”

To this, Ramkishore proudly responded that “yes,” his kurta is of Andhra, “double ikkat (a fabric) bolte hai isey. Before this, I used to wear Mangalagiri.” He shared that he belongs to a family where everyone wears handloom. So, when newer, cheaper products such as terry cotton and synthetics paved their way, he said, “I decided that I won’t wear anything other than handloom until I am alive.” Such a strong take to sustain the sector and bring it in the mainstream makes it quite evident of how keenly he wants the acceptance and revival of handloom at a broader level in the country.

He further said that this discussion would not have any effect until and unless the government is included in this. Giving an example about the weavers’ service centres, which the government has opened in various cities, he said, “They merely exist to showcase the efforts of the government but are hardly benefiting the weavers. It is important to go to the ground level and interact with the weavers to know the ground reality.” He expressed his concern over the five per cent tax on weavers’ products, which should be removed “to make the handlooms cheaper and the government should also provide subsidies.” He added about making a powerloom mark so that people can differentiate between handloom and powerloom. He then agreed to what Ritu said over the drift between the young generation and handloom, showing his concern over the same. He said, “They prefer earning Rs 10,000 to Rs 15,000 working on computers rather than earning Rs 600 per day for manufacturing handlooms.”

To this, designer David Abraham said that the issue has to be addressed at various levels and one cannot expect only the government or private sectors to take the responsibility of reviving handlooms. The needle has “shifted.” He said, “Over the years, there has been an improvement in this sector. Young designers are also engaging themselves here. But they also need to understand that this is our USP and the greatest product of luxury in the world.” He urged everyone to look at handlooms from the Indian perspective of sustainability and not from the Western prism as they already are way ahead in their approach.

Textile conservationist Madhu Jain, who is also known for her eco-friendly and sustainable production processes, added to this that we have changed the way we look at our treasure (handlooms). And it is very important for us to know the “intricacies of our products so that we are aware of its blending techniques.” She stressed upon having clusters of passionate people throughout the country who focus on reviving this culture and preach the same by giving her example — it’s her love for India’s indigenous textiles that has been providing a livelihood to the weaver communities for more than 30 years now.

However, saree connoisseur and textile scholar, Rta Kapur Chishti pointed towards the increase in consumption of handloom clothes only because of a sustained awareness about the artistry involved. Otherwise, the weavers and production were shrinking.

Giving an example of the Karvati sarees of Maharashtra, she said, “These sarees are lost because there are no weavers to make them. The technique used to create them is very fine but their revival is tough.” She agreed to the fact that celebrating one day for handloom is not enough as it is important to remind people of its very existence since “people, nowadays, are not aware that handloom still exists.” She runs ‘The Sari School’ in the capital and believes that we can blend our heritage with “a lot of inventions and creativity” to help it sustain and grow.

The session concluded on discussing all the possible and practical solutions like — relating handloom with all quirky designers to increase the youth’s connect, and rather than a discussion, initiating an interface between people and weavers. It stressed upon keeping this dialogue going so as to couple the craft and handloom industry with the fashion industry in a more open way.

Photo: Ranjan Dimri