Chef Sugandha Saxena tells Ayushi Sharma that one cannot experiment a lot with the ingredients and flavours of traditional cuisine, but can master the old techniques and present them to the world in one’s own signature style

• How different do you find the Kayastha cuisine from others?

Kayastha cuisine is an adapted cuisine, not a regional one. Kayasthas brought the royal Mughal cuisine to the locals, hence creating their own adapted version of these dishes. It doesn’t belong to any particular region of India as the Kayasthas are spread all over the country. These factors probably make it one of the most unique cuisines of the country.

• How do you think such traditional cuisines should be encouraged to bring them to the level of other global cuisines?

India being the country which is vast in culture, always has space for all. I do believe a global exposure through social media showcasing the beauty of this cuisine will be helpful. Whether through food enthusiasts writing more about this or food critics giving their valuable feedback on these dishes. Through chef tables that I organise, my prime goal is to bring forth this cuisine to as many as I can, making sure the legacy of my ancestors is carried forward respectfully.

• How have you customised your dishes to suit other preferences which are not familiar with the Kayastha cuisine?

Since it’s an adapted cuisine from Mughals, people are already familiar with the flavours and spices and so it doesn’t need too much customisation. However, I always include a touch of garam masala. For instance, the main ingredient for Murgi Gulaabi is rose petal powder, washed dried and crushed. I use it since roses were the Mughal favourite and so are mine.

• What are some of the most successful food experiments that you have mastered?

I have worked mostly upon meaty dishes and Indian desserts, with a bit of Western fusion as well as traditional. I have experimented with Sabudana Kheer giving it the flavour of blueberries and lavender.

• How do you think the Indian foodie is accepting  global food trends?

Indians are very open to new concepts lately and are ready when it comes to experimenting with their taste buds. For instance, modern Indian cuisine has taken a great step forward and is being appreciated by a number of people.

• What is it that could be the greatest cause of failure in a chef’s dish?

Unbalanced flavours, intuitive cooking and compromising with the quality of ingredients. I recently did an event in Kolkata where unfortunately due to some reasons I had to compromise the quality of the ingredient which made my dish zero in terms of flavours. One has to make sure the availability of the quality of ingredients wherever and whenever one is cooking.

• vHow has your cooking evolved over the years in terms of keeping track of the latest trends?

In the world of fusion and latest gastronomical style of cooking, I believe one still looks back to that bygone era which used to fill our hearts and not just the tummy. With traditional cuisines one can’t experiment much with ingredients and style, but can only master the old techniques and present it to the new world in their own signature style. However, I don’t follow the latest trend but I make sure I give the customer a complete experience of not just the food but the journey along with it.

• Food is subjective. Some may like a dish and some won’t. How do you deal with negative criticism to your food?

With all due respect, people will always have opinions. No one can ever deny that fact. And food is very subjective. The sooner one understands that, the sooner negative criticism won’t seem like censure anymore.