Impossible... is nothing

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Impossible... is nothing

Saturday, 27 November 2021 | Saimi Sattar

Impossible... is nothing

If Dubai believes in making everything magnificent, Atlantis, The Palm, epitomises the phenomenon, says Saimi Sattar as she experiences life queen size

The expanse of sand spread endlessly, interspersed with scrub, a few high rises, and cars that were moving at a speed that is possible only when viewed from the air. But as the plane circled and swooped to land, like the desert falcon, the high-rises that Dubai is known for suddenly came into view. The spectacular buildings are just one of the many things that add up to create an unmatched aura of the foremost of the seven Emirates, which exercises an unimaginable pull over blue- and white-collar workers, holidaymakers and shoppers alike. Dubai is nothing short of a man-made mirage, where every flight of fancy, howsoever much bizarre, finds a ready-to-take-off runway.

But then, all of these thoughts crossed my mind much after I had been through a gruelling 10 hours before hitting the tarmac in the ‘Promised Land’ of shopaholics. I say, ‘gruelling’ as international travel post-pandemic is a beast that is unrecognisable from its predecessor. Despite that, having been hemmed in within the boundaries that answer to the political description of India — for almost two years now — the break was welcome. What wasn’t met with equal enthusiasm was the mandatory arrival at the airport six hours before the flight for a RT-PCR test. For people like me, who even earlier found the long check-in hours burdensome, this was excruciating, to say the least. So for a seven o’clock flight, I had to reach no later than 1 in the morning! The sight that greeted me was unlike any that I had seen at any airport before. Queues of people — who were awaiting results — sleeping on parapets, rows of cubicles where their details were noted and bills generated as well as tests conducted while the luggage lay in a bit of disarray while the owners ran helter-skelter.

With the tests done, the reports finally filtered in two hours later. And another queue to pick it up followed by yet one more to confirm whether the two reports and visas were in order. And finally, check-in! However, one thing hadn’t changed at the T3 airport in Delhi. If you wanted to catch a wink, all the sleeperettes were sure to be occupied.

It was only when the flight landed that we were ushered into more cubicles where yet another test was conducted. But post that, it was business as usual...

...Except for the heat. It seemed to have been channelled straight from a blast furnace... that is if you had the bravado to step outside the air conditioning. I quickly took shelter in the waiting car at the airport. Making my way to Atlantis, The Palm — which was to be my abode for three days — I sped past chrome and glass buildings, cars in every imaginable colour that could put a woman’s wardrobe to shame, malls on roads that were so smooth that would have you stepping on the accelerator with glee.

We were headed towards Palm Island, the largest man-made island which is referred to as the ‘eighth wonder of the world’. The Palm’s shape was selected to ensure all buildings on the island would have a sea view and beach access. The finished island covers an area equivalent to 600 football pitches and is four times as big as London’s Hyde Park. Today, the 17 fronds are home to around 1,500 beachfront mansions, with a further 6,000 apartments on the trunk.

Soon enough, the car was running parallel with the beach and a turn led it to the hotel. And since Dubai does not do anything which is less than grand, Atlantis is spread over 46 hectares or — to make a layperson understand its scale — is the size of 64 Wembley football pitches. Atlantis was the first resort to open its doors on The Palm. With 1,548 rooms, seven signature suites and 22 storeys, it has played host to citizens of 227 different countries. Its signature Royal Bridge Suite, measuring 924 sq m costs US$27,000 per night, is an attraction — especially for Indians — as actor Shah Rukh Khan has stayed here. Another, the Underwater Suite — at 165 sq m, has a master bedroom with direct views of The Ambassador Lagoon aquarium, creating an illusion of being beneath the sea — is another popular option. The hotel is a microcosm of the Emirate which does not believe in living life which is not king size.

Checking in, I couldn’t help but admire the handblown glass installation in a myriad of colours and kept stealing looks as the Russian lady at the front desk completed the formalities. The priceless Dale Chihuly sculpture was created using 3,000 hand-blown pieces that were individually placed to build the 10-metre-high entry centerpiece. Even in Dubai where everything competes for attention — by being even more mammoth than larger than life and opulent — this is a showstopper.

Ushered in my room, I immediately raced to the balcony as views from a hotel room have often been behind my impulsive decisions to stay or leave a place since childhood. The vista that greeted me, despite the heat, had me tongue-tied (a rare occurrence) for some time. From the 13th floor, the view that spread out till the horizon had the deep blue sea with several yachts skimming on the surface (remember habibi, money CAN buy you happiness in Dubai), the Burj Khalifa shimmering in the heat, a stretch of greenery before it was interrupted by the new Atlantis, The Royal slated to open sometime next year, a monorail speeding past and also a teeny weeny glimpse of the famous Palm with its fronds that houses the whos who (including our very Shah Rukh Khan who is also the brand ambassador of Dubai). Peeking down, I saw another water body just below. I wondered what it was but couldn’t ponder over it for too long as I had to leave for lunch.

It was the descent from the lobby to the ground level which brought us face to face with a glass wall with a myriad of sea animals — stingrays, sharks, eels and 65,000 others — swimming (it seemed without care) in what could be closest to viewing them in their natural habitat without getting wet. I watched on mesmerised as realisation dawned that this was the water body I saw from above. This aquarium recreates Atlantis, the fictional island mentioned in an allegory on the hubris of nations in Plato's works Timaeus and Critias. Since the hotel is named after it, it is not surprising that floor-to-ceiling unbreakable glass practically brings in the water world at every turn. I would have stared on, lost in thought, had not my stomach let out a low growl complaining about the hours of neglect and in anticipation of the feast that I knew was in store.

We were headed towards Gordon Ramsay’s (yes, THE Multi-Michelin starred British chef and star of the small screen known equally well for his food and his temper) Bread Street Kitchen & Bar. This is just one of the 29 restaurants including three outlets by celebrity chefs, Nobu Matsuhisa, Giorgio Locatelli and Gordon Ramsay.

Done up in wood, with a profusion of lights in different shapes and sizes, the restaurant had an eclectic appeal that was tough to miss despite me being consumed by a state of sleep deprivation. While one might assume that it would be meats that dominate the menu, since Ramsay has often expressed his dislike for vegetarianism, the vegan trend has made inroads into his restaurant — certainly as unlikely a place as can be. And surprisingly, it was the Rigatoni with handpicked mushrooms — without even so much as a hint of animal protein — that was the star of the table despite an array of treats that were cooked and plated to perfection. But the side-effects of stuffing oneself with a dish of creamy carbohydrates soon became apparent. The four people at the table begin to nod off... especially since the night before had been less than restful. However, since no meal is complete without a dessert, an assorted platter followed. The Medjool date & banana sticky toffee pudding had us nodding in approval (and digging in several spoonfuls immediately after loud proclamations of being stuffed to the gills).

An afternoon siesta was called for after such an immensely satiating meal. Waking up refreshed, I was raring to head out for the Fish Tales Tour at The Lost Chambers Aquarium. For a hotel in the centre of a desert, the abundance of water, even if it is saline, is certainly a feat. And if you add the upkeep of a whopping 65,000 marine animals of 250 species, it certainly becomes even more mind-boggling. The Ambassador Lagoon at Atlantis is an 11 million litre marine habitat and one of the top 10 largest aquariums in the world. Its viewing pane is 10 meters long and 70 cm thick and if all its water was drained it would fill 4.5 Olympic-sized swimming pools!

While I, along with three others, explored the site on my own, it was the behind-the-scenes during the guided tour that had us holding on to every word. A fish hospital (my, my, did you know that existed?), a kitchen to prepare their food (400 kg of the same quality as is served to the hotel’s guests), a water filtration plant, a testing centre, several fish tanks where the young are kept and more were oohed and aahed over.

We wandered around before ending with a dinner at Hakkasan. While we were still quite full from the lunch, the hostess’ recommendation of Stir-fry vegetable and pine nut lettuce wrap was certainly a revelation and was quickly wrapped up (pun intended). However, we could not do justice to the main course as our stomachs collectively groaned under the onslaught of a constant barrage of delicacies. Practically collapsing into bed, we were soon off to la-la land,

Post a delicious spread of South-East Asian, local and international offerings at the breakfast buffet at the Saffron, we were up for some activities that were a little more adventurous than eating and walking about to take in the sights. We headed towards the White Beach, the seafront of the eponymously-named restaurant, which is exclusively used by the hotel guests. The sun beating down in all its intensity did not flag our spirits as we bravely ventured where we had never gone before — a session of paddleboarding. Donning the life jackets ensured that our courage was boosted manifold and we weren’t daunted by the open sea that stretched out till the horizon. If we were being marked, the first person to take off from the start point would have scored a perfect 10. Paddling gently on both sides, she stood up with perfect poise without losing balance and after a carefully executed pirouette, she headed back to safe shores exultant to have done it in one perfect sweep. I was up next and I have always been pretty confident –— that balance is something I always take time to achieve while perseverance is my strong point. And yet again, my hunch was not off the mark. Within minutes (or was it seconds?) of standing up, a loud splash followed and I was floating on my back. While the instructor was telling me not to panic, I promptly responded by standing up in the neck-deep (okay, okay for a 5’1” me) water and wading back to the shore to attempt it yet again. And yes, this time I was successful.

But I was not yet done with the water (blame it on me being a water sign) and dragged out a kayak along with a companion. The 20 minutes we paddled around were frequently interrupted by peels of laughter as we tried to manoeuvre the kayak without bumping into obstacles. Deeply tanned but exuberant, we made our way back...

Lunch was at White, the beachfront restaurant which specialises in Mediterranean cuisine. An all-white decor, fresh ingredients and a meal that was light were just what we needed. But it was the dessert, with its seemingly incongruous nomenclature of ‘bread’ that had everyone floored. Called the Monkey bread, with a hint of cinnamon and coffee, we eyed its large size when it arrived at the table and thought we would never finish it. We could not have erred more. And that was just another incorrect assumption about the dish. We sliced off a small bite and then another, and one more... till the plate was almost empty. And yes, even now, I can almost taste its delicious gorgeousness. Sigh.

However, there was more to come. On the last day of our stay, we were lined up for a dolphin and sea lion tour where we learnt the intricacies. The Dolphin Bay, spread over 4.5 hectares, is home to Indo-Pacific Bottlenose dolphins that eat between five and seven kg of fish per day. The Sea Lion Point is the only one of its kind in the region. Its residents are South African Fur Seals and are cared for by experienced Marine Mammal Specialists.

 The trainer explained that diet regulation, regular health check-ups, exercise and more were some of the things that ensured that both the physical and emotional well-being of these marine animals were well looked after. With the dolphin parks having come in for increased criticism from animal rights activists, we watched the marine animals from afar.

From there we headed straight to Aquaventure, the water playground of more than 18 million litres of water. With 79 rides spread across three towers 26 marine and watersport experiences, anyone who loves water parks this is a dream destination. While I debated whether I should take the Leap of

Faith — a sheer drop of 98-feet mega which plummets in a near-vertical fashion at frightening speed of 60 km/h in three seconds, shooting you through a clear acrylic tube surrounded by sharks and cownose rays —

I took some of the relatively tamer rides. So I went on a safari of a different kind in Shark Attack, where the fibreglass gives a 360° view of the shark-filled lagoon. Then, there were the Rapids, a 1.6-kilometre river and the Aquaconda, a 210 metres long and 25 metres high six-person waterslide tube.

Certainly, impossible is not a word that exists in Dubai’s dictionary.  

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