Israel may appear small on the map, but it is vast in experience, emotion, and historical depth. There is a famous Hebrew line that reflects the country’s essence: “Nothing can stop a person who believes in their own strength.” This single line captures the spirit I encountered across Israel — a blend of resilience, faith, and an unbroken will to live fully.
During my recent journey through this extraordinary land, that spirit surrounded me everywhere: in the ancient stones of King David’s Jerusalem, the old port city of Jaffa where St Peter is said to have stayed, the monumental remains of Herod the Great in Caesarea, Jerusalem and Masada, the serene waters of the Sea of Galilee where Jesus walked, and the perfectly manicured terraces of the Bahá’í Gardens in Haifa. Moving from the dry, dramatic landscapes near the Dead Sea to the breezy Mediterranean coast, I was reminded of another well-loved Hebrew saying: “From the desert to the sea, Israel is full of beautiful contrasts.”
What I offer here is not fiction or hearsay - but a truthful account of what I experienced firsthand. For me, there are two Israels, and both are deeply real. One is strong — born out of conflict, courage, and an unwavering fight for what is right. The other is beautiful — a place of history, spirituality, culture, and warmth, unlike anywhere else in the world.
Two Israels, Two Journeys
My relationship with Israel is framed by two sharply distinct moments. In 2023, I was on the ground reporting in the aftermath of the horrific October 7 terrorist attack. I wore a bulletproof jacket, moving through tense streets and uncertain skies, witnessing a nation grappling with one of the darkest chapters in its history. Fear and grief were heavy in the air, but so was unity. Israeli society came together with a kind of strength and focus that is difficult to describe unless you are standing in the middle of it.
In 2025, I returned to the same country, this time under warm sunshine, wearing casual and fashionable clothes, seeing Israel through a completely different lens. The contrasts could not have been sharper. The cafés were alive again. Beaches were full. Markets buzzed. Families travelled. Life had returned to the streets, proving once again that Israel does not simply survive challenges - it rises above them.
These two images of Israel — one hardened by conflict, another blessed with beauty — coexist constantly. Together, they form the true character of this remarkable nation.
Tel Aviv: A City That Never Stands Still
I arrived at Ben Gurion Airport on November 2, 2025, and headed toward Tel Aviv for the first part of my journey. Over the next three days, I saw a city transformed yet familiar — lively, energetic, and completely unafraid to express itself. Tel Aviv lives 24 hours a day. The city’s streets are filled with people rushing to offices, cafés, bookstores, restaurants, fashion boutiques, tech hubs, and local markets. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee floats from corner to corner. Bicycles and e-scooters zip through narrow lanes, buses roll past museums, and small dogs trot happily along the sidewalks.
One of the most noticeable elements of Tel Aviv — unchanged since 2023, yet richer in depth — is the street art. The walls are canvases and Graffiti of emotion. “Bring Them Home” murals, painted in powerful colours, reflect the country’s continuing plea for the return of hostages. Surrounding them are vibrant artworks filled with messages of unity, hope, love, and resilience. These murals are not just art — they are the city speaking directly to you.
A special thanks goes to Ella, our guide through Tel Aviv’s food and wine world. She led us to the heart of Levinsky Market, where we tasted excellent red and white wines, sampled local cheeses, herbs, and pastries, and learned how food in Israel is more than a meal - it is a story of culture, migration, and family traditions from across the world.
Tel Aviv transforms dramatically at night. With the help of Avital from D-TLV Pub Crawl, I explored a nightlife that is almost unmatched in the region. Bars, pubs, underground clubs, and rooftop lounges open a world of stories, music, and energy. You hear Hebrew, English, Russian, and French — a reflection of the country’s diverse population. There is jazz in some corners, pop music in others, and everywhere a sense that Tel Aviv simply does not want to sleep.
To visit Tel Aviv and not walk by its beach would be a missed opportunity. The Mediterranean waves, volleyball courts, cyclists, food stalls, and endless sunshine, including an open gym, create a rhythm that feels uniquely Israeli.
Jerusalem: Holy Land A City of Peace and Faith
After Tel Aviv’s liveliness, Jerusalem brings you to a different world altogether. During my travels, I met tourists from several European nations, the Philippines, and other parts of Asia at major attractions such as Masada, Jerusalem, and Caesarea. But Jerusalem was where the diversity of travellers became most visible. Pilgrims, students, artists, historians, and families — all converged on this ancient city for reasons of faith, learning, curiosity, or simply peace. Stepping into Jerusalem is a spiritual experience. Whether you are religious or not, you feel something profound and sacred the moment you enter its ancient gates. It is a city that whispers history in every stone.
No trip to the Holy City is complete without visiting the City of David. To miss it is to leave out a central chapter of human civilisation. The underground tunnels, archaeological findings, immersive lighting shows, and breathtaking views all help bring biblical history alive. I also spent time at the Austrian Pilgrim Hospice, a historical guesthouse established in 1863. It remains one of the most peaceful spots inside the Old City, with its European-style architecture, quiet gardens, and a rooftop terrace offering one of the best panoramic views of Jerusalem and sunset.
Jerusalem reminds you that Israel is not defined by conflict alone. It is defined by heritage, culture, faith, and stories carried across thousands of years.
Jerusalem remains the heart of tourism, drawing millions each year to sites such as the Western Wall, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and Temple Mount. Tel Aviv, meanwhile, continues to grow as a Mediterranean cultural powerhouse. Nature lovers have no shortage of breathtaking locations — from the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth, to the Galilee, favoured by hikers and pilgrims alike. My journey through Israel reminded me of something profound: this land is never just one thing. It is ancient and modern, tough and tender, fast and slow, resilient and welcoming.
Whether you come here as a journalist, a traveller, a pilgrim, or simply a curious visitor, Israel meets you with history, hospitality, and heart.
From wearing a bulletproof jacket in 2023 to walking confidently in fashionable clothes in 2025, my experience reflects the country’s own journey — a constant balance between strength and beauty. Special thanks to our guide from Israel, Mr. Amri Wandel, for providing us with detailed and highly impressive insights throughout our tour.
The writer is an Associate Editor (Foreign Affairs) at The Pioneer. He recently visited Israel; views are personal
