Bhojpuri Cuisine: A well-rounded and delectable saga

Among its many gastronomic treasures, the Bhojpuri cuisine stands tall — a vibrant, earthy, and deeply rooted culinary tradition that speaks of the land’s agricultural bounty, cultural resilience, and culinary ingenuity

Bihar was called Magadha in ancient times, with its current capital of Patna known as Pataliputra. It was, according to many records, one of the first empires built in India — and attributed to the Nanda dynasty. The legacy of the state is second to none with names of one of the greatest dynasties — the Mauryan dynasty, one of the greatest universities of all times — Nalanda, and one of the most prolific religions of the world — Buddhism, all of which had their beginnings in this iconic state of India. There is another regional gem that has made a significant contribution to our history, particularly that of Indian cuisine, and shines through on the Indian culinary map: Bihari food! It’s like no other, with its repertoire being way beyond Litti Chokha (Litti is a spicy roasted dumpling prepared with roasted gram flour and spices, and Chokha is baked brinjal and potato mash with a lot of garlic and coriander), Dal Pitha (Pitha is made with rice flour dough and filled with a spicy lentil mixture; the lentils are cooked into a paste, mixed with spices, stuffed into dough and finally steamed or boiled) and Sattu Paratha (Sattu, i.e. Bengal Gram Flour blended with flavours and filled in wheat balls, then rolled and cooked with ghee; the ensuing Sattu Paratha is called Makuni). Such is the region’s culinary legacy that it’s impossible to do justice in a single write-up; therefore, in this piece, I will focus on the Bhojpuri cuisine — an integral, flavourful and absolutely delicious offering from the state. Bhojpuri cuisine is spread across Bihar, parts of eastern Uttar Pradesh, Jharkhand (part of Bihar till 2000) along with the Terai region of Nepal. It is rooted in the rural, agricultural lifestyle of the Bhojpuri people, is characterised by its mild and flavourful dishes which often use minimal spices, have a blend of local ingredients, and a slight influence from the neighbouring Awadhi cuisine. Rice and Wheat are the staple grains, while Maize, Barley and Pearl Millet are also consumed in varying degrees.

The cuisine is known for its use of mustard oil and the “five spices” or panchphoran — which includes fenugreek, cumin, nigella, mustard and fennel seeds. This spice mixture is often used for tempering or to enhance the taste of vegetables and pulses. The health benefits of Bhojpuri cuisine are particularly immense, and they need to be underscored. The generous use of mustard oil in the cuisine is heart and gut-healthy. It helps to raise the good HDL cholesterol, and being a natural stimulant, it also enhances digestion and improves appetite. Not many know that the oil’s high selenium content also helps reduce inflammation in the body. Additionally, the health-conscious can also do well to discover the delights of Makhana and Sattu — both staples of this cuisine. Sattu ka sharbat (a drink made from roasted gram powder flavoured with cumin powder and black salt) is the perfect way to boost your protein intake and stay cool from inside. Similarly, Sattu ka paratha and roti are yet another example of protein-packed foods which are beneficial for the muscles and bones of the body. Makhana — a low glycemic index, gluten-free seed — is a good source of protein and fibre, besides controlling blood pressure, owing to its low-sodium, high-potassium composition. They also deliver the rare-to-find vitamin B1 (thiamine) — that plays a key role in nerve, muscle and heart function, and is the key to converting the carbohydrates we eat to energy in the body. It’s time to deep dive into the variety, and take a look at the broad canvas on which the Bhojpuri cuisine operates — clearly, there is something to satisfy every kind of taste bud.

The uniqueness of the cuisine is seen through Baingan Badi ki sabzi — aubergine curry with sun-dried lentil dumplings or Badi, and assorted vegetables, Pachphoran Kohra — pumpkin cooked with five whole spices. Arwa rice, also known as ‘Arwa Chaur’ in Bhojpuri, is a type of rice grown exclusively in Bihar and Jharkhand. This is a small grain rice which has a very unique aroma and taste — it is also a good source of quality protein and carbohydrates. A marriage of flavours is seen in Noon Jaauri — rice cooked with salt, spices and vegetables (that can include green peas, carrot, cauliflower), chenna (fresh and unripened curd cheese), dal badis (lentil balls) and served with Raita, and Dahi Jaauri — partially cooked rice mixed with beaten curd, and spices are added to enhance the taste and flavour. A regional variation of the much-loved Khichdi is seen in Khatua — which is made using toor daal and rice and flavoured with lemon juice. Another dish, Adauri, is cooked using mustard oil, potatoes, onions, spices and Bhojpuri Aadouri (a special type of urad daal badi) and served with Makuni (roti filled with sattu) and some chutney. Both these dishes are particularly popular during the Chhath Puja season and have a rich cultural significance. Another local favourite is Bharbhara, a shallow-fried fritter made from gram flour, peas, vegetables and spices. It is a classic accompaniment with tea and coffee.

The robust sweet flavours of the region are reflected through dishes like Tilkut, a nutty and sweet dish, made of sesame seeds and jaggery or sugar and presented in different shapes, Meethi Jaauri — cooking rice with jaggery or sugar and adding dry fruits and saffron, and Gurma — made from raw mango, sugar and wheat flour and served alone or with roti. The Balushahi, which is found in other states as well, is another popular sweet dish of this region; it is made from flour, yoghurt and ghee, which are deep fried and coated with sugar syrup — it is without doubt a delectable and sinful indulgence. A dish known for its unique texture and melt-in-mouth taste is Khaja — made by frying flour in ghee, and then dipping it in sugar syrup, making it crispy from outside and sweet and juicy from the inside. It is the continuity and the ability of the Bhojpuri cuisine to hold its own that stands out and passes the test of time with flying colours. The region is a powerhouse of formidable dishes that offer delicate and intense flavours along with a large variety. The cuisine, without doubt, celebrates the local produce and its availability, and entwines it with distinctive forms of preparation that uses Handi, Kadhai, Tava and Deg, and with the climatic conditions of the region.

A great example of the last sentence is Girwachh / Rikwachh — leaves of Colocasia coated with a batter of gram flour and spices; these are then folded and deep-fried in hot oil, like fritters — and commonly consumed in monsoon season.

The Bhojpuri cuisine is indeed a crown jewel, and its prolific and distinct taste needs to be showcased in a grand manner, and brought before our current and future generation with great alacrity. It is high time that the younger generation deep dives into the goodness of our regional cuisines, which are endowed and balanced with both flavour and nutrition. I am sure it will go a long way in benefiting their long-term health and wellness goals, thereby, contributing towards a more healthy and productive nation.

(The writer is a Secretary, Cuisine India Society. Views are personal)