Flavours of the Heartland: The rich culinary heritage of Bundelkhand
The region of Bundelkhand occupies the central part of India, covering areas in the states of Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh. Bundelkhand is also known as Chedi Kingdom and Jejabhukti or Jejakabhukti. Its name literally means “Bundela domain,” referring to the Rajput clan that ruled the region. “Jejabhukti” or “Jejakabhukti” is derived from the nickname of a Chandela ruler, Jayashakti — the dynasty ruled over Bundelkhand from the 9th to the 13th century.
Bundelkhand is a land renowned for its cultural heritage, arts and crafts, handicrafts, and culinary offerings. In this article, we will focus on the local food of the region and its various dimensions. When we look at the culinary landscape of the region, one wonders why more people don’t know about its cuisine — one that exhibits a perfect balance of nutrition, is in sync with the climatic conditions, taste, practicality, and variety. There is indeed something to satisfy the most selective as well as the most experimental food lovers. The staples consumed in this region are a perfect example of local produce, local consumption, and superior health benefits. There is a diverse availability and intake of millets like Jowar and Bajra along with Kodo and Kutki, also known as foxtail and little millets respectively.
They have traditionally been important components of the diet in the Bundelkhand region and are primarily consumed in tribal areas. All of the above are known for their myriad health benefits and ability to thrive in the region’s arid climate. The unique preparation techniques of Bundelkhand, such as the use of earthen pots for various dishes along with slow simmering on firewood, are another important factor that contributes to their inimitable taste and variety — these techniques are therefore known to enhance flavour, as well as allow for much greater nutrient absorption. When we look at the dishes that stand out in the region, the first that comes to mind is Bara — an age-old traditional dish made with split black lentil dumplings, soaked in buttermilk, tempered with mustard seeds, and served with a dash of crushed sugar. Its robust flavour is indeed a must-try. For those who are into milder culinary delights, prefer subtle flavours and nutrition, Maheri is what they need to try. It’s a slow-cooked dish which is made with broken crushed millet and buttermilk and looks quite like the ubiquitous kichadi. Another simple yet flavourful offering is Thopa, derived from the term ‘thopana’ which means patting. It showcases the skill of handcrafting: chickpea flour is combined with water and cooked to achieve a thick consistency, post which salt, red chilli, garlic, chopped onion, and cumin are added to the mixture. The unique cooking style of the region is exhibited through Bafauri, a dish that gets its name from ‘bhaap’ meaning steam. In this, a clean cloth is tied over a water-filled earthen pot which is then placed on a flame until steam rises. Once enough steam is generated, small ‘pakoris’ crafted from thick batter from chickpea flour and water are placed on the cloth and mixed with spices like cumin, chillies, cloves, and garlic. The symphony of flavours and artistry of the area are brought to the forefront by Meeda — gram flour pieces that are either roasted or fried and float in a thin tomato and onion gravy. While Besan ke Aloo incorporates dried amla (Indian gooseberry) which is roasted in ghee or oil and ground into a fine powder, this is then combined with chickpea flour to form lemon-sized balls which are cooked in boiling water, added with spices, and culminating into a culinary delight. The famous Karhi of India has this region’s version called Karar — it involves soaking green gram in water for 3 hours. It is then peeled and coarsely ground on a grindstone, post which garlic, ginger, and chillies are added, making for a wholesome and well-rounded dish.
The region’s list is incomplete without mentioning Kunde ka Bhatta — roasted garlic stuffed with aubergine, onion, and tomatoes. It is indeed an amalgamation of flavours and a reflection of the deep understanding of food in this part of India through the ages. Indian food is incomplete without something for the sweet tooth! Bundelkhand hits it out of the park in this area as well. Ras Kheer is made from sugarcane juice, local mahua flowers, and milk and contains no added sugar. Another interesting dish is Kumhde ki Kheer, a pudding made from red pumpkin and milk. A stellar example of harmonising flavours with well-being is reflected through Lapsi, made using broken wheat (dalia), ghee, and dried fruits, while Anarsa, made from rice flour, jaggery, or sugar, showcases the delightful contrast of textures. A regional favourite is Puri ke Laddoo. It is made by frying thick rotis or bread made from chickpea flour in oil, crushed, and sieved to achieve a uniform consistency, finally undergoing a gentle roasting process using ghee. It is indeed a testimony to the unique processes deployed by the region in preparing the dishes.
Bundelkhand cuisine, just like the region’s location on the Indian map, is central and a significant constituent of Indian cuisine. Its contribution to our culinary history is second to none, and the important position that it gives to millets — grains that are known for their nutritional, environmental, and historical significance and benefits — needs to be highlighted, shared, and applauded! It is time to get our future generation to understand the value of Indian cuisine. This will ensure that Indians will increasingly consume nutritional and healthy foods that are offered by several areas like Bundelkhand — many of which, until now, are hidden in plain sight!
(The writer is Secretary, Cuisine India Society. Views are personal)
