Maithili cuisine: A one of its kind

Spread across parts of Bihar, Jharkhand, and southern Nepal, Maithili culinary tradition is not merely about food — it is a living chronicle of Mithila’s history, devotion, Ayurveda and deep ecological harmony

An inalienable part of the robust culinary offerings from Bihar is the Maithili or Mithila cuisine. It spans across parts of Bihar, Jharkhand (Part of Bihar till 2000) and the Koshi, Bagmati and Madhesh provinces of Nepal. Mithila first gained prominence after being settled by Indo-Aryan people who established the Videha kingdom. During the Later Vedic period (c. 1100-500 BCE), Videha became one of the major political and cultural centres of Ancient India, along with Kuru and Panchala. The kings of the Videha Kingdom were called Janakas and the Videha Kingdom was incorporated into the Vajjika League, which had its capital in the city of Vaishali and is also in Mithila. Mithila is one of the most significant pilgrimage sites in Jainism and is associated with Mahavira, the 24th Tirthankara. Lord Buddha also visited this region and during his visit, he is recorded to have preached the Makhadeva and Brahmayu suttas, which are part of the Pali canon.

The region’s legacy therefore is unparalleled, and it extends to the culinary sphere as well. In the 14th century, the Maithili book titled Varnaratnakara discussed Maithili cuisine and mentioned the importance of yoghurt (dahi), fish (machha), and various other elements. This historical reference suggests that Maithili cuisine has remained relatively unchanged for many centuries. Maithili cuisine isn’t just about tradition, it also follows Ayurvedic principles and adapts to seasonal food cycles. Special dishes are prepared during Maithili festivals like Juddhashtami, Dashahara, Tila Sankranti, and the Chhath Puja.

Local produce is the fundamental and star element of the cuisine, there is also the incorporation of meticulous techniques, leading to dishes known for their simplicity as well as sophistication which resonate with the rich cultural history of the area. Did I mention the simplicity of dishes? There is also an element of grandeur that is associated with the food of this region — the ‘Chhappan Bhog’! a feast in honour of people, usually, revered guests, friends, and family. This has its beginnings in being offered to Lord Krishna in gratitude, a total of 56 dishes offered to him by the Brijwasis, representing eight meals for each of the seven days he shielded the people of Vrindavan from Lord Indra’s wrath. Chhappan Bhog represents a harmonious blend of six tastes: bitter (karwa), spicy (teekha), astringent (kasaila), sour (khatta), salty (namkeen), and sweet (meetha). By skilfully combining these tastes in various ways, 56 distinct and delectable dishes are made and include Parwal Tarua — Parwal, also known as pointed gourd is sliced into two halves lengthwise, coated in a thick batter, and deep-fried, Kadima Tarua — Kadima refers to the fresh leaves of the pumpkin in Maithili, after washing the fresh leaves of Kadima, it needs to be folded like a triangle, the leaves are then heated on a low flame and coated in a batter giving it a crunchy exterior and a soft interior. The list goes on to include dishes made from potato, cauliflower, sesame, flaxseeds, Colocasia leaves (Kachu ke Patte), Chana Daal (Ninwa/Ghewre ki Sabzi), Drumsticks (Sahjan ki Sabzi), and Biriya — a special recipe from the Mithila region of Bihar made by drying chickpea greens and coating them in flour and used in a spicy potato and mustard gravy. It is known for its aroma, texture and slight bitterness, all of which are standout features of the dish.

In Maithili society, there is a saying, “Maach, paan aa makhaan swarme seho nahin bhatet,” which translates to “Fish, betel leaves, and makhana (fox nuts) are not found even in heaven.” This saying implies that these items are so highly regarded in Maithili culture that they are considered even more precious than heavenly delights. In Maithili culture, fish is typically not brought in from outside, it is sourced from local ponds and lakes. Even vegetables and ingredients for making pickles and papads are usually grown in the region itself, often in home gardens. The emphasis on using locally sourced ingredients adds to the uniqueness of Maithili cuisine.

The seasonal focus of the cuisine is reflected through dishes like Bagiya, which celebrates the new rice harvest. Typically enjoyed around November or December, it is made from freshly harvested rice flour stuffed with lentils or vegetables, jaggery and steamed. It is filled with sweet or savoury ingredients making it a powerhouse of flavour. Tilauri, a kind of cracker made from a batter of rice flour, sesame seeds and jaggery or salt, post this it is made in round shapes and dried in the sun — the dried Tilauri is then deep-fried in oil and eaten — this can be both sweet or savoury depending on the ingredients used. Bidhiya is made by drying green leaves like mustard greens (tori), lamb’s quarters (beta), or pea leaves (mattar), these leaves are mixed with black lentil batter before being dried —  this dish showcases Mithila’s resourcefulness in preserving seasonal produce. Kumhrauri is made by drying Ash Gourd and later used in different curries and dishes, and is made to preserve the excess production in the harvest season for other dry seasons. Taruwa dish uses different vegetables, dipped in a batter of blended soaked rice and various spices are added to the batter. It is one of the major dishes in Mithila culture which is mandatorily prepared for every festival and occasion.

The variety of the Maithili cuisine is augmented through its sweet dishes like Thakuwa which holds huge cultural and religious significance. It is also known as Thekuwa or Thokni and is a traditional Indo-Nepali cookie. It is an important item especially during the Chhath festival season — offered as a sacred gift to Lord Surya and Chhathi Maya on the third day of the festival. Another famous recipe is Anarsa — made from rice flour, soaked in sugar syrup, and deep-fried to perfection. The region’s culinary story is incomplete without mentioning the Makhana kheer — a sweet rice pudding made with lotus seeds (makhana), milk, and dried nuts, and Kasar, a traditional dish, particularly associated with the Chhath Puja festival — it’s dry and prepared with rice flour, jaggery, ghee, and sometimes fennel seeds and dry fruits.

The Maithili cuisine is without doubt a celebration on a plate, it’s a burst of flavour that is unmatched and unique. It is reflective of the top-class culinary prowess of the region, and an ode to an unaltered culinary journey through the ages. I firmly believe that the youth and future generation need to discover its full range of variety, nutrition and an environmentally harmonious approach —  only then will they understand its true value and grand stature!

(The writer is the Secretary of the Cuisine India Society. Views expressed are personal)