Odia cuisine: Steeped in history, legacy and flavour!

From the humble kitchens of agrarian homes to the grand Mahaprasad served in the Jagannath Temple, Odisha’s culinary heritage is a gentle yet powerful testament to balance, subtlety, and soulful nourishment

Odisha, formerly known as Kalinga and Utkal, has a rich history dating back to ancient times. It begins in the Lower Palaeolithic era, also called Early Stone Age, as Acheulian tools dating to the period have been discovered in various places in the region. The state also finds mention in writings found in ancient texts like the Mahabharata, Maha Govinda Sutta, and some Puranas. The Kalinga War (261 BCE), a conflict between the Mauryan Empire (led by Ashoka) and the independent kingdom of Kalinga, was a pivotal event in ancient Indian history — it led to Ashoka’s conversion to Buddhism and the subsequent shift in his policy toward peace and Dharma. The Ashoka Chakra, also known as the Dharma Chakra, which is found in the centre of our national flag, was introduced by Emperor Ashoka after the Kalinga War. The war had a deep impact on the emperor, leading him to embrace Buddhism and pursue a policy of peace and non-violence called Dhamma.

Therefore, the history and heritage of the state is indeed a testimony to India’s historical depth — it is immense, significant, and second to no other! This spectacular range of the state completes a full circle through its most impressive culinary repertoire. Kalinga was famous for its prosperous trade routes and cultural exchanges, and as a result, the food is a treasure trove of flavours, a symphony of simplicity, centuries of outstanding traditions, and a most exquisite deployment of aromatic flavours. It is the balance of the cuisine that stands out full of flavour, and yet, no overpowering ingredients — it’s subtle, it’s nuanced, and it is this innate feature that makes the Odia cuisine — one of a kind! It’s now time to dive into the food offerings from the state — after all, the proof of the pudding is in the eating!

The state’s cooking uses the Pancha Phutana — a five-spice blend consisting of cumin, fenugreek, mustard, aniseed, and onion seeds — in this, the level of spice and oil is on the lower side. Interestingly, the snacks have higher spice levels, and this is seen in the very popular Gupchup — semolina or wheat-fried balls filled with sweet and tangy water and known in many parts of India as Pani Puri. An ode to simplicity and mild flavours can be found in Santula — vegetable curry or stew cooked with minimal spices — it can be prepared in two ways, fried (bhaja santula) or boiled (sijha santula). The versatility of the cuisine is exhibited through Pitha — rice pancakes or dumplings — filled with sweet or savoury mixtures, they can be pan-fried, deep-fried, steamed or baked and have numerous variations that include Kakara Pitha, Chakuli Pitha, Manda Pitha, Poda Pitha and so on, and then there is Besara — a tangy vegetable of fish curry that is thickened using a distinctive mustard paste or masala. The vegetable Besara (a popular variant) is often included in the Chhappan Bhog, or 56 dishes, offered as Mahaprasad at the Puri Jagannath Temple. Odisha’s deep connection with the agrarian communities is showcased through Pakhala Bhata, a culturally significant dish made from cooked rice soaked in water and is often fermented; it is the state’s answer to the scorching summer months. Dalma — considered the heart and soul of Odisha’s everyday meal (eaten for breakfast and/or dinner) is made using lentils and vegetables, mildly seasoned with spices and topped with grated coconut.

The eastern coastal state’s splendid contrast of textures is displayed through Badi Chura — a crunchy delight made from crushed dried lentil dumplings (badi) mixed with spices, and often served with plain rice or Pakhala (fermented rice). The humble Khichdi (rice cooked with lentils), is called Khechudi in Odia cuisine — the state has several variations of it, like Ada Hengu Khichdi, Nabagraha Khichdi, Nikura Khichdi, Dala Khichdi — these are wholesome and nourishing and are common in households across the state. Fish is one of the undisputed stars of Odia cuisine, and dishes like Machha Ghanta — fried fish head in an onion, potato, and garlic curry — is a household favourite and a Durga Puja delicacy.  Another variety is the Mahura Fry — a fried fish preparation, specifically using hilsa or Indian herring, and then there is Machha Mahura, a traditional Odia fish curry made with steamed, deboned, and then fried fish, along with vegetables.

Prawns too are consumed generously and recipes like Chingudi Kasa, a dried version of the jhol or prawn curry made with prawns fresh from Chilika Lake, is a regional gem and a good example of the state’s unique culinary identity. A cuisine being spoken of and the sweet element missing? Inconceivable! And in the case of Odia cuisine, a formidable line-up is visible — it is reflected through dishes like Chhenna Poda, made from fresh paneer (Indian cottage cheese) and baked until it develops a caramelised crust and a soft and sweet interior. It is known for its distinctive burnt appearance and bold taste. Another delight is Kanika (an aromatic sweet rice dish), prepared during festivals and pujas and a staple in the 56 dishes (Mahaprasadas) offered at the Jagannath temple in Puri. It is known for its mild sweetness and flavourful aroma and incorporates basmati rice, ghee, dry fruits, turmeric, sugar, and whole spices.

Khiri Payesh is Odisha’s comfort dessert and is made using jaggery or sugar, roasted dry fruits, and cow ghee, all of which undergo a boiling process. Some of its variations also use saffron, cardamom, and nuts to add flavour. A sweet that looks similar to the iconic Malpua is called Rasabali; however, its main ingredient is only chhenna (fresh curd cheese). It is a thin, doughnut-shaped fresh chenna patty that is deep-fried in rice bran oil — an important source of unsaturated fats, vitamin E, and other beneficial compounds like oryzanol. Another flavour bomb from the state is Khasta Gaja — a dish exhibiting a crispy texture on the outside and a soft and juicy texture on the inside, it is made by frying diced pieces of dough in oil and soaking them in sugar syrup; the dish is often prepared during marriages, festivals, and various other celebrations. Odisha’s twist to the famous Rasamalai is found in Khira Sagara — tiny semi-flat marble balls of chhena boiled in sugar syrup, then soaked in thick skimmed milk, and seasoned with sugar, saffron, and cardamom.

And finally! There is one, the most famous and divine offering (literally) from the state — the Rasagola. In fact, it is Odisha where it originated and travelled to different parts of the country. The journey began in the 11th century and is associated with a story of Lord Jagannath pacifying an angry goddess Laxmi with a sweet — any guesses? Yes — the Rasagola, whose delicious versions are found in different parts of the state like Salepur, Pahala, and Behrampur. Today, there is a trend among the youth to consume fad foods — it is therefore critical that our regional chefs take the mantle of converting their cuisines, along with their prolific art forms. They have to be mindful of keeping the original ingredients and their nutritional values intact, but at the same time, modernising their cuisines to attract our youth. I believe this will nudge them to consume, and increasingly benefit from, the rich                      heritage of our interminable regional cuisine powerhouses.

(The writer is a Secretary, Cuisine India Society. Views are personal)