Bengali Cuisine: A Flavour Dynamite with Variety that Spoils-Literally!

The region of Bengal is immersed in rich history and its contribution to various aspects of national importance is second to none. The name is derived from the ancient kingdom of Vanga or Banga, with the earliest evidence of settlement in the region provided by prehistoric stone tools discovered in areas of Midnapore, Bankura and Burdwan. Aryan influence in ancient India came to be felt in the north-western parts in the middle of the second millennium BC, and it took a long time for the Aryans to reach the eastern limits of the subcontinent. Thus, the people of Bengal felt the tide of Aryanisation quite late, and it was around the 5th century BC, that it pushed into Bengal from the west, and it took many centuries to Aryanise large parts of Bengal.

According to sources, the original settlers of this geographical sphere were the non-Aryan ethnic groups-Nisadas or Austric or Austro-Asiatics-who are now represented by the primitive peoples known as Kola, Bhil, Santal, Shabara, Pulinda, etc. At a subsequent age, peoples of two other ethnic stocks settled in Bengal, whose languages were Dravidian and Tibeto-Burman. The Mahasthan Brahmi Inscription, found in an excavated site of the old Pundranagar, now represented by the ruins at Mahasthan in Bogra district, bear testimony to Maurya rule (3rd century BC) in parts of Bengal, and archaeological excavations prove the existence of this urban administrative and cultural centre throughout the ancient period, up to the 12th century AD. Under Gupta rule, Bengal was an important province in the all-Indian Gupta Empire. The break-up of the Gupta Empire, the invasions of the Hunas and the sudden entry and exit of Yashodharman on the political stage of northern India dealt great shocks to eastern India. And finally, the Muslim influence on Bengal’s history is significant and multifaceted, stemming from the arrival of Islam in the 13th century and lasting through various Muslim-ruled periods, including the Bengal Sultanate and Mughal rule.

It is therefore quite natural that, through the above-mentioned periods of history, the culinary journey of the region is also diverse, steeped in traditions and unparalleled in heritage. Around 5,000 years ago, rice emerged as a staple calorie resource as paddy cultivation came to Bengal from Southeast Asia-prior to this, most people in this region consumed millets, just like in many other parts of the country. The rivers of the region brought seafood, especially fish, into the evolution of the cuisine. Rice and fish remain as the most popular and common meal, hence the phrase “Maache-Bhaate-Bangali” which translates to “fish and rice make a Bengali”. The Jews were the ones who brought bakeries to Bengal, while the Marwaris contributed a significant portion to the Bengali’s sweet-making skills, the Mughal’s brought various flavours of Mughlai cuisine to the state, and Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh contributed with a large variety of Awadhi cuisine and traditions, such as Khansamas (stewards) and Masalchis (spice mixers) and a taste for non-vegetarian dishes that included chicken and mutton. The first Bengali texts of the 11th century, the Charyapadas, describe fishing and hunting, and mention many kinds of food crop including rice and sugarcane, but there is no reference to any kind of dal, and it is only in 15th-century texts, such as the Mangal Kavyas, that different kinds of dal, varieties of meat, and the process of cooking are mentioned. Lentil dishes, for many centuries now, are an important part of the cuisine and include Cholar dal (Bengal gram), Masoor dal (red lentils), Bhaja Muger dal (fried moong dal) and many more-all of which reflect the incorporation of local produce, nourishment and unique taste by this regional gastronomical powerhouse.

Conventionally, Bengali dishes are divided into four types — Charbya (food which is to be chewed, like rice, fish, etc.), Chosya (food which is to be sucked, liquids like ambal, tak, etc.), Lehya (food which is to be licked, like chatni) and Peya (drinks, like milk). This classification highlights the variety of textures and methods of eating within the cuisine. The state also has its own garam masala with a definite identity — Panch Phoran (five spice mix) which means literally ‘the spice that crackles five times’, and its cuisine gives equal importance to the ‘Shadrasa’, the six basic flavours in Ayurveda, with a particular focus on ‘tikta’ (the bitter taste) which is believed to cleanse the palate and aid the digestive system. The local mustard called ‘Kashundi’, which has a strong and delicious flavour-is an inseparable and unique component of Bengal’s cuisine.

I cannot but be fascinated by the state’s culinary line-up. Illich Mass Annanas (Hilsa fish with pineapple) is a treat of flavours. Pabda (Indian Butterfish) Macher Tel Jhaal or Pabda Macher Jhol is a staple Bengali Fish Curry; it uses mustard paste, onion, spices, tomato and yoghurt. The choice of fish also points towards focus on nutrition-Pabda is high in potassium, magnesium, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, along with high protein and low fat content, all of which contribute towards general well-being. Another delicious offering is called ‘Shutki’-dried or fermented fish, which is a popular ingredient in Bengali cuisine; it is used in various dishes, from simple chutneys to Bhortas (mashed preparations) to more elaborate curries and stews, and Kosha Mangsho-an iconic Bengali mutton curry, known for its superior flavour resulting from slow-cooked gravy. A great example of modifying an outside dish according to their own flavours is seen in Potoler Dolma-a popular delicacy consisting of pointed gourd (potol) stuffed with a flavourful filling, often made with vegetables, meat or prawns, and cooked in a gravy. The dish is inspired by the Armenian dolma, but Bengalis have adapted it with their own unique ingredients and cooking style by using mustard oil and ginger-garlic paste.

At this point, the hallowed Shukto needs to be brought in; by the looks of it, Shukto seems like a simple vegetable stew, but it hides an ocean of complexity; it is a medley of vegetables cooked with panch phoren (Bengali five spices), especially korolla or ucche (meaning bitter gourd) and spices cooked deftly to bring out delicate flavours, making shukto is truly an art that only the most nuanced cooks can master. Chorchori is another delicious dish from the region; it is a vegetable dish (sometimes meat is also used) flavoured with poppy seeds and mustard seeds paste. It is characterised by the way the vegetables are cut (often into similar shapes and sizes) and cooked with minimal water. When we talk about delicious, another dish that comes to mind is Chechki or Chhechki, typically made with vegetables like radish, pumpkin, or cauliflower and potatoes, cooked with minimal spices. The term “Chechki” refers to the stir-frying technique used in Bengali cuisine. A classic regional element is found in Dalna-a preparation that is often curry or gravy-based and typically featuring vegetables or paneer (Indian cheese) simmered in a flavourful sauce. It’s a common and popular category in Bengali cuisine, with various sub-types like Chhanar Dalna (cottage cheese curry) and Dhokar Dalna (lentil cake curry). Discussion on Bengali cuisine is incomplete without mentioning Pora — a cooking technique which is an integral part of the cuisine. The word “Pora” itself means “charred” or “burnt” in Bengali, and it refers to the method of cooking ingredients directly over an open flame or hot coals, resulting in a smoky flavour. Dishes using this technique include Begun Pora (roasted eggplant) and Aam Pora Sharbat (refreshing drink made from roasted raw mangoes). The humble potato is given a fantastic twist through Aloo Posto, which translates to “potatoes with poppy seeds,” it is yet another classic and very popular Bengali dish, in which potatoes are cooked with a paste of poppy seeds (posto), often with green chillies and nigella seeds (kalonji).

Bengali cuisine ensures that just like all other tastes, the sweet flavour also receives adequate focus. This is exhibited through dishes like Roshogolla-soft balls made from Chenna, having a spongy texture and soaked with sugar syrup. Shondesh — made with sweetened chenna, there are different varieties and while the base ingredients remain the same, you can find them in different flavours like Mango, Pista, and many more. The cuisine’s variety is showcased through Mishti Doi — a traditional Bengali dessert adored for its creamy and sweet taste; this delicacy is made by fermenting sweetened milk, resulting in a thick and luscious yoghurt that is often presented in earthen pots. Another yoghurt-based dessert is Bhapa Doi, made by blending yoghurt and condensed milk, which is then steamed. Though it looks like a pudding and has a panna-cotta like texture, it does not contain gelatine or any other setting agent. 

Then there is the Chenar Jelapi-basically the omnipresent jalebi receiving a royal makeover; it is made with chenna (fresh paneer), maida (all-purpose flour), and khoya (reduced milk) and has a delightful crispy texture on the outside and is soft on the inside, literally melting in the mouth when fresh, and Patishapta is a traditional Bengali sweet that is part of every Bengali’s childhood food memory — typically made during special occasions like the Bengali New Year, using rice flour, semolina, and stuffed with coconut jaggery or khoya, and has a delicious filling of sweetened grated coconut. The use of jaggery in Bengali sweets is also found in Nolen Gurer Paayesh-it is made on all special occasions. This dish is made by boiling aromatic basmati rice in milk and is mixed with palm jaggery until the jaggery melts completely and a thick concoction is left behind — it can be served cold or hot with garnishes of nuts.

The impressive list of sweets continues its stellar run with Cham Cham — made from fresh chhena (cottage cheese); these oval-shaped dumplings are cooked in a sugar syrup infused with cardamom or saffron for added flavour — after cooking they are often rolled in grated coconut, enhancing the texture and taste; and there is the flavourful Mihidana-a minuscule relative of boondi, crafted from a blend of powdered rice, flour, and saffron mixed with water. The resulting mixture is poured through a sieve — like ladle and deep-fried, creating tiny, crispy particles. These delicate nuggets of fried delight are subsequently dipped in sugar syrup, allowing them to absorb the sweetness before being drained.

Bengali cuisine is the coming together of top-notch and unique flavours, a variety that is sure to impress the most conservative food critic, and a fantastic blend of ingredients that are used to prepare an ocean of dishes in multiple ways, and using the most interesting techniques. It is important to note that most of the dishes and ingredients that are used in Bengali cuisine, like fish, jaggery (date palm jaggery as well as gur), chenna (Indian cottage cheese), mustard, lentils, and many more, are rich in nutrition and have a significantly beneficial impact on gut health. It is critical for each and everyone to know how it ties in with our ancient Ayurvedic principles of ‘good gut is good health’ — I therefore urge my fellow citizens to share the immensely beneficial properties that are intrinsic to Bengali cuisine with our younger generation, so that they can add it to their to-do list!

(The writer is Secretary, Cuisine India Society. Views are personal)