Sikkim might not be a big state, but it punches way above its weight. It’s a region that is strategic, endowed with majestic beauty, and has a cuisine that is a melting pot — influenced by the neighbouring countries and areas like Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet. Its food integrates varied elements that result in the most delicious, intense and flavourful culinary experience. This is not at all surprising when we look at the rich history that shapes the journey of the state across many centuries.
Sikkim — the name of the state - originated from the words ‘Su’ (New), ‘Khyim’ (Palace or house) - which means ‘new house or palace’. The early inhabitants of this region were known as Lepcha, who gradually assimilated with the other tribes such as Mon, Chang, and Naong. The Bhutias began to enter this area during the 14th century. In 1642, the Kingdom of Sikkim was created, with Phuntsog Namgyal, the first Chogyal (spiritual and temporal king), coming from the Bhutia community — the Namgyal dynasty went on to rule Sikkim for a long time — till 1975!
During the mid-18th century, there were many territorial wars between Sikkim and Nepal, as well as with Bhutan. Nepal was victorious and occupied a few parts of western and southern Sikkim, and it was during this time that a large number of Nepalese migrated to Sikkim. In 1816, Sikkim supported the British in the Anglo-Nepalese War — by this time, the power of the Chogyals reduced as British rule came into place, with Sikkim becoming a protectorate state under British rule in 1890. It was in 1975 that Sikkim officially became the 22nd state of India, post a referendum in the same year, in which the Sikkimese people voted to end the monarchy and join India — the integration was formalised through the 36th Amendment to the Indian Constitution.
The local food of Sikkim reflects the diverse culture of this beautiful little state with strong regional influences. I intend on going beyond ‘momos’ (dumplings), which, while widely consumed in the state, is a dish that — along with its varieties — many of us are already well aware of! The food variety of Sikkim is a balance of non-vegetarian and vegetarian, with vegetables that are used in the dishes largely prepared in the form of fermented vegetables - which enables them to be preserved for a longer time.
Sikkimese food comprises rice and other vegetables from the forests like Nongro (fern), Baas ko Tusa (bamboo shoot), Nakima (wild lily), Chew (mushrooms) along with many unique condiments. When we look at the diverse food offerings from the state, we find ‘Ponguzom’ — a traditional Lepcha dish from Sikkim, India, cooked inside a bamboo stem. It involves placing raw ingredients like rice, vegetables, or fish with salt inside a green bamboo stem, sealing it with leaves and strings, then roasting it over an open fire until the bamboo turns brown. The bamboo is then cut open to reveal the cooked food. And ‘Suzom’ — it involves slow-cooking meat in a pit dug in the earth. The meat is seasoned and placed on banana leaves atop heated stones, then covered with more leaves and earth, and left to bake for a day. This method of cooking results in a flavourful and tender dish.
The delightful ‘Sel Roti’ also comes to my mind, adopted from its nearby areas like Nepal. It is made from rice flour (rice is washed and soaked in water and ground). It is further mixed with water to form a paste with sugar and cardamom; other spices are also added according to the choice of the eater. The mixture is dropped into hot oil in a ring-like shape and enjoyed as a snack for breakfast.
Similarly, the state has ‘Kodo ko Roti’ — a type of pancake made from Kodo (finger millet) flour, often served with tomato chutney or other local side dishes. This dish is a common part of the local Nepali cuisine and is enjoyed as a snack or light meal, especially in the evening.
A flavour bomb from the region is ‘Gundruk’ - a traditional Nepali fermented leafy green vegetable dish that is also a staple and popular food in Sikkim. It is made by fermenting mustard leaves, radish leaves, or other leafy greens, which are then dried and used in soups, stews, or as a side dish. Gundruk is known for its unique tangy and slightly sour flavour, developed during the fermentation process.
Another traditional and popular dish is ‘Kinema curry’ — a fermented soybean dish with a unique sticky texture, often prepared by boiling and fermenting soybeans. Kinema is a protein-rich food and is typically served with rice as a staple. It is a common dish among the Limbu and Kirat people in the Eastern Himalayan region, including Sikkim, Darjeeling, and Kalimpong.
A local dish known for its robust flavour is ‘Dhindo’ — a staple dish enjoyed by locals and tourists alike. It is made by gradually adding flour (often buckwheat, millet, or corn flour) to boiling water while stirring to create a thick, paste-like consistency. It is typically served with lentil soup, fermented dishes like Gundruk, or meat.
The culinary splendour is also showcased by bamboo shoot curry, often referred to as ‘Tama Curry’, known for its unique flavour and texture. Bamboo shoots are a common ingredient in Sikkimese cuisine, and this curry is a delicious way to enjoy them — it is typically served with rice.
Any discussion about Sikkimese cuisine is incomplete without mentioning ‘Thukpa’ — a popular noodle soup, considered a staple in the region, particularly among the Nepalese and Tibetan communities. It is a flavourful soup made with noodles, vegetables, and meat that is relished by the locals as well as tourists.
There is also the legendary ‘Chhurpi Soup’, a staple in Sikkimese cuisine and often served as a welcome drink. Chhurpi, a fermented cheese made from yak or cow milk, is the key ingredient. The soup is known for being wholesome and nourishing, with local vegetables and pulses often added for extra nutrition.
Chhurpi (fermented cheese) is also a key ingredient of ‘Chhurpi-Ningro curry’, a popular and commonly consumed dish in Sikkim. It is a combination of Chhurpi and Ningro (fiddlehead ferns), which are sautéed and then simmered in a curry.
The diversity of the cuisine is highlighted by ‘Sha Phaley’ — a dish with Tibetan origins. It is a deep-fried, savoury pastry filled with ground meat, cabbage, and spices like garlic and ginger. It is considered a staple in Sikkimese cuisine and is enjoyed as a snack or part of a meal.
‘Laphing’ is a popular Tibetan dish that has become a well-loved part of Sikkim’s cuisine. It is a cold, spicy noodle dish made from mung bean flour, typically served with a flavourful sauce. It is known for its distinctive spicy taste and slippery texture.
‘Sinki’ is another traditional food of the state. It is a fermented radish dish that has a tangy and spicy taste that can be enjoyed as a pickle or side dish — it not only offers a unique sour flavour but also has probiotic benefits.
The beverages from the state cannot be overlooked, especially because of their strong cultural and traditional significance. ‘Chhang’ is considered a part of Sikkim’s food culture.
It is a traditional Sikkimese alcoholic beverage made from fermented millet or rice. While not a dish in the traditional sense, it is a staple during festivals and social gatherings and is often enjoyed alongside local foods. Chhang is typically served in a bamboo container called a tongba and is enjoyed by pouring hot water over the fermented millet or rice and sipping it through a bamboo straw. It is a refreshing and invigorating drink that offers insight into the region’s cultural traditions.
Then there is ‘Raksi’ or ‘Rakshi’ — the Nepali term for a traditional distilled alcoholic beverage in Sikkim that is homemade. Raksi is a strong drink, clear but tasting somewhat like Japanese sake. It is made from millet (kodo) or rice. The beverage is an important requirement of various religious rituals and social events.
‘Bhaati Jaanr’, also known as Sikkim’s rice wine, is a traditional alcoholic beverage and a part of Sikkimese cuisine. It is made from fermented rice, has an intense flavour, and is often enjoyed during festivals as well as with meals.
And finally, there is the very popular ‘Sikkim Tea’, particularly ‘Temi Tea’ — known for its distinctive flavour profile and aroma. It is a result of the mineral-rich soil, high altitude and cool climate found in the state.
When it comes to the sweet dishes — Sikkim has that covered as well! And this is exhibited through ‘Dhel’ — it exemplifies the use of regional ingredients along with age-old culinary techniques. In this, rice is prepared by heating it with jaggery, producing a sweet and satisfying dish, often offered on important occasions. Dhel is also the mainstay of many Sikkimese household diets.
‘Khapse’ is a deep-fried, sweet biscuit or pastry prepared during festivals like Losar (Tibetan New Year). The dish is made from a dough of flour,
butter, and sugar, and sometimes includes milk or yoghurt.
Sikkimese cuisine is indeed a powerhouse of distinct flavours and offers a range of dishes that are sure to hit the sweet spot for most people. It’s a gastronomic delight that I’m surprised is still not known to a large section of our population — particularly our youth and future generation. Information and awareness about the full expanse of this cuisine are critical — so that this generation can know about the potential and benefits of the food offerings from the Himalayan state of Sikkim, and make some of its dishes a part of their culinary journey!
(The writer is Secretary, Cuisine India Society. Views are personal)
