Coorg: Where coffee culture meets aspirational avocados

Coorg's lush landscapes are evolving, with century-old coffee plantations now sharing space with thriving rows of avocado trees, writes GYANESHWAR DAYAL

As I pack my bags in Delhi the AQI is reading staggering 430, the smog has dawned on the city and there is heaviness in the air, eyes burning, breathing is an effort to be undertaken. The touchdown in Kempegowda International Airport Bengaluru is smooth the temperature is almost at par with Delhi but air is breathable. The five hours journey to Coorg is tiring but relaxing scenery changes from rocky to green to lush green, on the way you get to see the Gabbar Singh’s den, the place where Sholay film was shot some 40 years back. On the way we have elephant family waiting for us by the roadside and snake crosses the road as drives pushes the brakes. Yes, all of us have right to live, even snakes!

It is night already and the day is done without much fuss as we retire in 140-year-old property a British bungalow now a tata property -Taneerhulla in ama coffee trail. The morning view from the window is fascinating, Delhi smog has given way to Coorg fog, and AQI has dropped to 43! I take a deep breath, as if to store this purity and carry it back home.

Coorg, or Kodagu as it is known in Kannad is nestled in the heart of the Western Ghats, has a fascinating history shaped by its strategic location, natural resources, and the allure of its spices. This region has been a magnet for traders, rulers, and explorers, each drawn by its bounty and beauty.

The history of Coorg dates back to ancient times, with its mention in early Indian texts like the Sangam literature. The region was originally home to indigenous tribes like the Kodavas, who developed a rich culture centered around nature and agriculture. Kodavas are known for their martial traditions, unique customs, and close-knit community life, which continue to define Coorg’s identity today. Over centuries, Coorg saw the rise and fall of several South Indian dynasties, including the Cholas, Gangas, Hoysalas, and Kadambas. These rulers left their imprint through temples and forts, which stand as silent witnesses to the region’s historical significance.

By the 15th and 16th centuries, the fame of the Western Ghats and their riches spread beyond India’s borders. The spice trade was the primary lure, as Coorg, along with other parts of the Western Ghats, became a significant source of black pepper, cardamom, and other exotic spices. The Portuguese were among the first Europeans to set sail for India, with Vasco da Gama’s arrival in 1498 marking a new era of trade and conquest. Soon, Dutch, French, and British traders followed, vying for control of spice routes. Coorg, though a landlocked region, became an integral part of these trade networks due to its fertile hills and spice plantations.

In the early 19th century, the British annexed Coorg after defeating the local ruler, Chikka Veerarajendra, in 1834. Recognising Coorg’s agricultural potential, the British transformed its economy by introducing coffee cultivation alongside spices. This was the beginning of coffee plantation on commercial scale in Coorg and has stayed that way since. Coffee thrived in the region’s climate, and Coorg became one of India’s premier coffee-producing areas. The planters were of course the British who lived near their plantations. Their Bungalows dot the place and the one we stayed was of course belonged to a British. The British also admired Coorg’s natural beauty. Coorg is often referred to as the "Scotland of India" for its rolling hills, misty valleys, and temperate weather. Under British influence, the Kodavas were granted special privileges, including exemption from the Arms Act, which allowed them to retain their traditional firearms-a legacy still continues.

The Western Ghats, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are among the most biodiverse regions on the planet. Stretching over 1,600 kilometers from Gujarat to Kerala, these ancient mountains are home to an astonishing variety of flora and fauna.

In Coorg, the Western Ghats reveal their most enchanting side. Dense forests, gurgling streams, and cascading waterfalls dominate the landscape, making it a paradise for nature enthusiasts. The forests host an incredible range of plant species, from ancient trees to medicinal herbs. They are especially known for sandalwood, teak, and bamboo. The Western Ghats are a haven for wildlife, including tigers, elephants, gaurs, and numerous endemic species like the Lion-tailed Macaque and Malabar Civet. The Ghats are also critical for the region’s agriculture, providing a fertile environment for growing coffee, spices, and now avocados.

Coorg’s history is a blend of ancient traditions and modern influences. Its spice heritage continues to thrive alongside its renowned coffee plantations. Now, with the introduction of avocado cultivation by Westfalia Fruit, Coorg is stepping into a new chapter of agricultural innovation.

Tourists visiting Coorg can trace its history through ancient temples, forts, and colonial-era bungalows, all while enjoying its natural beauty and rich culinary traditions. The intertwining of the Western Ghats’ biodiversity with the cultural tapestry of Coorg makes it one of India’s most enchanting destinations.

Coorg’s identity is deeply intertwined with its coffee plantations, which have been the backbone of its economy for decades. Introduced by Baba Budan in the 17th century, coffee found an ideal home in Coorg’s rich soil and temperate climate. Today, the district is one of India’s leading coffee-producing regions, renowned for its Arabica and Robusta beans.

The plantations, often set against misty hillsides, not only produce world-class coffee but also create picturesque landscapes that attract tourists. Coffee estate tours allow visitors to learn about the journey of coffee beans from farm to cup, making them an integral part of the Coorg experience.

Located in southwestern Karnataka, Coorg is a verdant hill station known for its cool climate, scenic views, and pristine environment. It is part of the UNESCO -listed Western Ghats, one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots. The region’s dense forests, cascading waterfalls and diverse wildlife make it a haven for eco-tourism and outdoor activities such as trekking, birdwatching, and nature photography.

Some must-visit spots include the Abbey Falls, Raja’s Seat, Dubare Elephant Camp, and the Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary. The Kaveri River, originating from Talakaveri in Coorg, adds to the district’s charm, serving as a lifeline for the southern states of India.

While coffee remains Coorg’s hallmark, the region is now witnessing a burgeoning avocado revolution, led by Westfalia Fruit, a global leader in avocado production. Recognising Coorg’s favourable climate for cultivation, Westfalia has established a state-of-the-art avocado nursery in collaboration with Sam Agri and Dvori-Or Nursery. The initiative focuses on growing high-quality Hass and other commercial avocado varieties.

The saying, "Where tea and coffee grow, avocados can grow better," perfectly describes Coorg’s potential. Its tropical climate, high elevation, and fertile soil make it an excellent location for avocado farming. Westfalia’s meticulous approach to planting, nurturing, and harvesting ensures that the avocados meet global quality standards.

Westfalia has already contributed to planting over 500 acres of avocado farms across India, with a target to exceed 1,000 acres by 2026. The Coorg nursery plays a critical role in supplying premium rootstock and planting material, ensuring sustainable practices and high yields. For coffee farmers, avocados offer a promising diversification crop, creating additional income streams and contributing to rural development. Westfalia, in partnership with the World Avocado Organisation (WAO), is driving efforts to educate Indian consumers about the health benefits and culinary versatility of avocados. Campaigns like "Avocado Ki Paatshaala," led by celebrity chef Sanjeev Kapoor, have been instrumental in popularising the fruit. We get hands on lessons on avocado grafting and cloning the techniques Westfalia is introducing in Coorg for avocado plantation sooner than later Coorg avocados would be available across the country. Avocados is one of the healthy diet options which can served in several avatars from avocado-on-toast to guacamole and even avocado shake and ice cream. This is going to benefit the local farmers as well as they can four to five times the amount they make on coffee.

Coorg’s transformation from a coffee giant to a hub for avocados signifies its adaptability and progressive approach to agriculture. Visitors to Coorg can now enjoy not only a cup of freshly brewed coffee but also a taste of locally grown avocados, blending wellness with indulgence.

Whether you’re exploring its lush landscapes, learning about coffee cultivation, or witnessing the avocado revolution, Coorg offers a unique journey through nature and innovation. This jewel of Karnataka remains a must-visit destination for travellers and a shining example of India’s agricultural potential.

As the time to leave draws near, I find myself reflecting on the air of Delhi and take one last, deep breath of Coorg’s pure, refreshing atmosphere. The aroma of spices beckons us to the local market, where we gather handfuls of fragrant treasures and, naturally, Coorg’s signature Arabica and Robusta coffee. With our bags filled with spices, coffee, and the newfound delight of avocados, we bid farewell to this enchanting land and set out on the highway to Bengaluru. As we journey home, our hearts are brimming with memories that promise to call us back. Coorg is a place one longs to return to-sooner rather than later.