Designers present Khadi as a symbol of pride and Indian heritage, while emphasising the importance of making it a global fashion statement. By Chahak Mittal
When Mahatma Gandhi began the Swadeshi movement asking Indians to boycott British-made garments, spin the yarn themselves and wear Khadi, he was encouraging people to rediscover pride in their heritage while at the same time making it the basis of India’s economic regeneration. Fast forward to 2019 and you see the fabric that lent support to the rural livelihood has transitioned into a global fashion statement.
To celebrate 100 years of the handspun fabric and commemorate Mahatma Gandhi’s 150th birth anniversary, FICCI Ladies Organisation (FLO) and All India Women’s Education Fund Association (AIWEFA) presented a day-long conclave-cum-exhibition titled, Khadi Goes Global.
Designers Rohit Bal, Rina Dhaka, Abu Jani, Sandeep Khosla and Rajesh Pratap Singh, among others presented the fabric in a new form presenting it as a global style statement.
“It’s the national fabric that stands for India’s freedom struggle and independence. It stands for an immense amount of self discovery. It’s the reason people realised their self reliance and pride. Khadi is the fabric of the past, the present and the future,” said Rohit who created an all-white ramp show which had a plethora of styles of Khadi.
The designer believes that the only one way to popularise it globally is by making it “visible to the world” and ensuring that people realise the “beauty” which it carries within. The initiative Khadi Goes Global, he said, is “just the beginning.”
If one looks at the legacy of Khadi, it’s a century old now. Then what explains the boom that it is seeing after so many decades? Rohit said that unlike linen, which has been the most favored fabric choice over ages, “Khadi is the newest fabric for the world, historically. The boundaries take time to expand, especially when fashion consciousness has permeated everywhere, unlike during the past few decades. There have been fabrics which are more than 500 years old. Linen and muslin are the examples. In this way, Khadi is the brand new.”
Talking about what he presented at the showcase, he said that he hasn’t blended it with any strong Western influence. “Khadi is a versatile fabric that can be customised as per any kind of styling. It is best used for any kind of fluid clothing. I cannot imagine it being used for structured clothing,” said he.
However, he said that there are also designers like Rajesh who are making jackets and all things Western out of it, but “Khadi, for me, is the fabric of the soul, realism and carries with it a very intense feeling of independence. It stands for inclusivity and something that makes you part of the Indian culture.”
His models walked the ramp in bright white Khadi sarees and ethnic wear showcasing immense pride in various facets of local fashion.
Moving further, it was Rina Dhaka whose stylish handwoven Khadi clothes gave a new charm to what could be called street fashion. It showed how it’s more than just jeans or trousers with large Khadi bags, loose-fit pants, and easy tops. With Jai Jawaan Jai written on her shirt, her presentation paid a tribute to the martyrs of the Pulwama attack.
“We have worked over blending and structured the silk as well as the mulmul for softness. We used the whole mill-made Khadi. But our creations also narrate a journey of their evolution as well as beauty. It is so strong that it cannot be ignored,” said Rina as she felt emotional.
For her, Khadi is not just a fabric, rather a history. She said, “It is about a culture. The original Gandhian doesn’t believe in the currency. They barter by making a Khadi cloth for someone and selling it as a source of livelihood. It is about the avant-garde world. It is a warp and weft of life.”
She believed that Khadi comes with a lot of restrictions, which is why it has taken a long time to evolve as a global fashion statement. It also has various versions like silk, mulmul, handloom.
Unlike other fabrics, she said, “Khadi’s story is different. They have different spins — flat spin, charkha spin — and the looms are smaller. There is discrepancy in the fabric. No other fabric has such a story or a process.”
The designer, who has previously worked for a number of Khadi and sustainable clothing initiatives, one of them being Jharcraft, feels that she doesn’t need an applause for what she is doing because it is an important “responsibility.”
While Padma Shri Geeta Chandran performed on the Maitreen Bhajata paying tribute to the Gandhian idea of freedom, actors Arjun Rampal and Aditi Rao Hydari walked the ramp as showstoppers.
