Day Two at the Fashion Week defied all boundaries of monochromes, presenting a range of colours and recalling the concepts of mix and match
Bill Blass once said, ‘When in doubt, wear red.’ Well, the day three at the Lotus Make-up India Fashion Week somewhat defied this. By bringing a range of colours, and modern designs to the fore, it embraced the idea of confluence of variants, and mix and match.
Through a feminine, flirtatious, and romantic range, designer Suneet Varma’s collection titled Anaya was an inspiration from the incredible traditional motifs and embroidery from the decorative arts of India. The large abstract-shaped mirrors with multi-coloured thread embroidery was a modern and fresh take for the contemporary bride. Ranging from dark shades of midnight blue and burgundy with silver accents in lehengas with off-shoulder blouses and short jackets, his collection showcased draped skirts worn with capes and ruffled organza shirts with high-waisted palazzo pants.
The collection in shiny silver and gold metallic foil was a perfect mix of glamour with traditional silhouettes. The crystal tassel collection was inspired from the magnificent Indian jewel tones. Emerald green, ruby red and sapphire blue in teardrop and triangular crystals were used creatively in three dimensional embellishment which was worn with dramatic and draped skirts.
Designer Sanjukta Dutta showcased her new collection Morom. It was an eclectic mix of traditional design in modern silhouette, pared down in the choicest of characteristic Assamese Silk, which is locally produced by getting cocoons of a particular lineage of worms found only in a single village in Assam. Inspired by the butterfly and natural flora of the state, her range comprised of Mekhala Chador, the traditional sari of Assam. The beauty of the designs was how she has used the age-old silk and created modern designs including jumpsuits, skirt and crop top, saris with cape and pant suit. Dominated by black, creme and beige, the collection was highlighted with motifs in red, silver and gold. Actress Karisma Kapoor looked elegant in a stunning black Mekhala Chador highlighted with red embroidery as she walked the ramp for Sanjukta. The look was completed with exquisitely designed jewellery by Narayan Jewellers by Ketan and Jatin Chokshi.
Karisma said, “It is such a wonderful cause and Sanjukta does a lot of work to promote women empowerment. She has done a lot for women in Assam. She has given 500 women an opportunity to work and make these wonderful handloom pieces. I love bright colours and I see today as the perfect occasion to wear it.”
Amrich’s collection aimed to create an immaculate confluence of shapes, fabrics, colours and surfaces, informed by their rich repository of engagement with Indian handloom and craft traditions. The exquisite hand-loomed and hand-crafted natural textiles were specially developed in different parts of the country in khadi cotton, wool, silks and silk blends.
They focussed on a fun take at mixing and matching or un-matching of sheer and opaque through different textiles and fabric construction in the line. They used thick khadi cotton yarn woven with desi tussar silk on an open weave to create translucent fabrics whilst also making use of the khadi yarns to play with checks and stripes. A newness was created in the shibori patterns by way of introducing interesting fabric manipulations in the process. Through hand-embroideries with threadwork and beads and hand-made metal sequins, they added an element of interest to the elegant textiles. With bold shades of black, red, blue and green, the colour palette was subdued.
The collection, by channelising the timeless elegance of the hand-made into garments that are versatile, modern and evocative, was a celebration of the juxtaposition of multiplicities and its exciting offshoots.
Designer Charu Parashar presented her collection titled Avant Gardiste, which was inspired by the Chintz floral Calico textiles of 19th century. She cleverly brought the concept and transformed it totally on a deep luxurious background of colours, creating a stunning AW’19 look. The collection featured age-old techniques of hand embroidery and Indian handlooms fabrics to create prêt and diffusion look. With floral and Chintz prints, she re-invented the old silhouettes to create a new look. Through navy blue, red and sea green, her colour palette included all shades of dark.
Known for her nature-inspired designs, her collections stood for high quality of craftsmanship and innovation of Indian ethnic luxury. Keeping the Indian sensibility in mind, her designs yet gave a global vibe.
With this collection, she continues to work towards a more sustainable fashion future, keeping the old art and techniques of block printing alive. The designs were all made with sustainable fabric such as khadi silk, raw silk, satin silk, silk velvet, georgettes, and organza. There were a range of clothes including Indian waistcoats, drape dhoti’s, jackets, skirts, capes, offering a fine balance between the simple styles with few details, in which the colours like navy blue, red and sea green alone create the expression and other well- known styles that are rich details.
This year she also showcased her first ever menswear look.
Designer Dolly J brought a hyper feminine collection injected with loud, saturated, pop colours like mint green and candy pink. The collection’s seductive appeal was offset by the 70s’ florals, pleated skirts and big fur sleeves. Bows and pleated frills formed an integral part of her red carpet-worthy, evening ensembles.
Photo: Pankaj Kumar