Once a silent player in the market, the onion, today, is a vocal symbol of inflationary pressures, supply-chain disruptions and demand-supply dynamics
Onion prices are set to stay high for at least a month because there's not enough supply. Even though the government removed the 40% export duty to make overseas sales more profitable and also introduced a minimum export price (MEP) to discourage exports, however, despite these measures, onion exports are expected to remain strong due to high global demand. As of Tuesday, November 22, 2023, the average retail price of onions across India stands at Rs 59.09 per kg, as reported by the Consumer Affairs Ministry. The modal price, representing the most frequently occurring value, is recorded at Rs 60 per kg nationwide. Notably, in the Capital City of Delhi, onion prices have experienced a decline, currently resting at Rs 60 per kg.
In the history of India's culinary landscape, the humble yet indispensable ingredient that has played a pivotal role in the nation's kitchens for centuries is the onion. While skyrocketing prices of onion have started dipping, what was once a tear-inducing, flavour-enhancing ally in the hands of every home cook, has now become the centre of a financial storm, leaving consumers shedding more than just tears. The recent surge in onion prices, reaching a staggering ?80-?90 per kilogram, had sent several shockwaves – while the blame game by political parties continued.
However, a look at a history of the arrival of onion in India, and one could say that its journey to the Indian subcontinent is a tale as vibrant and delicious as the dishes they enhances. With their origins traced back to central Asia, onions embarked on a culinary journey to India, navigating trade routes with enriching (culinary) discoveries. Evidence from ancient texts and archaeological excavations indicates that onions have woven themselves into the fabric of Indian cuisine for more than 5,000 years, contributing richness and intricacy to the taste profiles of innumerable dishes. It is believed that in India, onion has been grown from ancient times as mentioned in a famous early medicine treatise ‘Charaka Samhita (6 B.C.)’.
It is believed that humans have been using onions since the Neolithic period, and they are still used all over the world. The onion was considered a symbol of eternity by the ancient Egyptians, who used it in religious ceremonies. Onions were also used by the Greeks and Romans, who valued them for their medicinal properties. Onion cultivation spread across Europe and was brought to the Americas by settlers. There are other theories about onion that it is most likely an Asian species native to North West India, Baluchistan, and Afghanistan. According to Google, onion was most likely named after the city built by ONIA in 1703 B.C. near the Gulf of Swez.
Historical records also suggest that onions were introduced to India by the Persians and Egyptians. The ancient Indian text, Chanakya’s ‘Arthashastra’, mentions the cultivation of onions and their consumption as a staple food item during the Mauryan Empire (322–185 BCE). With the widening of trade routes, the appeal of onions experienced a surge. Without exaggeration, one can claim that onions have earned their popularity among chefs and home cooks due to their incredible versatility. The medieval period witnessed a significant culinary transformation in Indian cuisine, particularly influenced by the Mughals. Renowned for their appreciation of rich and aromatic flavours, the Mughal rulers used onions in the preparation of elaborate Mughlai dishes. In the southern regions of India, onions found their way into diverse regional cuisines such as onions with mustard seeds, curry leaves and so on. Meanwhile, in the northern, western and eastern parts of the country, onions became a kitchen staple, integral to the foundation of numerous everyday recipes. People in the northern belt also started using onions as prevention from the scorching heat waves during summer.
In India, however, onions extend beyond their culinary utility and hold deep cultural and symbolic significance. They are often used in traditional medicinal practices, though like garlic, in Hindu traditions, onions aren’t used during religious festivals and offerings to the deity. It is generally believed that garlic and onion possess strong and pungent qualities and are considered to be "rajasic" or "tamasic" in nature, associated with heightened activity and a negative influence on spiritual practices, meditation, or mindfulness. Thus, to maintain a pure and calm state of mind, some individuals choose to avoid them.
Onions have a longstanding history in Ayurveda too, the ancient Indian system of holistic healing. Ayurveda places great emphasis on the balance of bodily elements and views food as a potent form of medicine. Onions are believed to possess various medicinal properties and are used to treat a range of ailments because of their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, helping, alleviate respiratory issues, such as coughs and colds, and are believed to have a positive impact on digestion.
The pungent flavour of onions is thought to stimulate digestive juices, aiding in the digestion process. ‘Easy Ayurveda.Com’ mentions that “onion is anti-ageing, rejuvenating, aphrodisiac and improves intelligence. It improves skin complexion, useful for skin disorders.
Over the course of centuries, onions evolved from being merely a culinary essential to a symbol representing prosperity and well-being. In folklore and traditions, the onion gained reverence for its perceived medicinal benefits, believed to bring good fortune and ward off malevolent spirits. Ironically, our forebears could not have foreseen that this humble, tear-inducing vegetable would influence politics and economics alike to the surprise of economists and policymakers, drawing worldwide attention.
Once a silent player in the market, the onion, today, is a vocal symbol of inflationary pressures supply-chain disruptions and demand-supply dynamics. However, the surge in onion prices not only mirrors the difficulties encountered by farmers and traders but also underscores the complex interplay between market forces and consumer demands.
Nevertheless, amidst the challenges posed by escalating onion prices, there lies an opportunity for resilience and reform. The collective woes and tears shed while cutting onions can spark a broader dialogue on agricultural practices, supply chain resilience, and the necessity for sustainable economic policies. Like the fusion dishes that blend Indian and global flavours, resolving the onion crisis demands a fusion of thoughtful consideration of various factors, which the policymakers, farmers, and consumers must collaborate in peeling back the layers of this issue and addressing its root causes.
(The writer is Programme Executive, Gandhi Smriti and Darshan Samiti, views are personal)
