The Parsi embroidery faces extinction, urging preservation amid dwindling numbers, says MANISHA GAWADE

Tracing the History of the Parsi Gara

The intelligent and enterprising Parsi community, as we know it today, is descendants of Zoroastrians who migrated to India from Persia (modern-day Iran) in the 7th century to escape religious persecution. They settled in the western Indian state of Gujarat, particularly in cities like Surat and Navsari. Over the centuries, the Parsis embraced Indian culture while retaining their Zoroastrian faith. As they first settled in Gujarat due to the trade routes, Parsi men began trading with China. Initially, they went to buy tea from China and sold it in India. During these trade sojourns, they discovered a beautiful silk fabric called gaaj or paaj — so exquisite in its beauty that they ended up buying yards for their wives. The history of Parsi Gara embroidery is closely linked to the Parsi community’s migration to India and their cultural assimilation.

About the Parsi Gara Embroidery

Parsi Gara is a traditional embroidery style originating from the Parsi community in India. It is known for its intricate, highly detailed floral and nature-inspired designs. Typically, Parsi Gara embroidery is done on silk or georgette fabrics using colourful silk threads.The motifs in Parsi Gara embroidery often include flowers, birds, butterflies, and other elements of nature, meticulously stitched onto garments like sarees, blouses, and dresses. This embroidery style is highly regarded for its craftsmanship and is considered a symbol of Parsi cultural heritage.

Evolution of This Historic Art Form on Textile

Parsi Gara embroidery is often associated with Parsi weddings, where brides may wear sarees adorned with these exquisite embroideries as part of their bridal attire. The art of Parsi Gara embroidery has been passed down through generations and continues to be a cherished tradition within the Parsi community. Parsi Gara embroidery, as we popularly know it, is believed to have been influenced by Persian and Chinese embroidery traditions. The Parsis adopted and adapted these styles, incorporating their unique motifs and designs, such as floral patterns and birds.

Craft and Its Craftsmen

Although Parsi Gara embroidery continues to be treasured for its beauty and craftsmanship—serving as a reminder of the rich cultural heritage of the Parsi community and their ability to adapt and contribute to the diverse tapestry of Indian culture — the state of many of its craftsmen is dire. There are only 55 trained master karigars left, as the process is labour-intensive and they are paid merely around Rs. 400 per day. It can take anywhere between six months to a year to make a single saree, dupatta or even a lehenga .

Process of Creation

The process of making a Gara saree begins with the design being drawn on paper, followed by the selection of colour samples. The craftsmen then study the designs and trace them onto the fabric. The creation of a Gara saree  takes anywhere between two to eight months.

An interesting aspect of the design process is that a craftsman specialising in a particular motif continues to work on that motif alone, ensuring uniformity and mastery in their work.  A Gara can be fully embroidered, feature an embroidered border, have scattered embroidery, or be partially adorned.

Preservation and Promotion

An increase in demand and greater awareness is the only way to preserve this royal craft. As per the simple rule of economics — the higher the demand, the higher the supply — if more people place orders, we can rescue it from extinction. The government can also play a role by promoting Parsi Gara embroidery on international platforms.

The Parsi population in India is estimated to be around 70,000. The 2011 census recorded a population of 57,264, and projections suggest that it may fall to 9,000 by the end of the century. The decline in birth rates within the Parsi community, coupled with the decreasing demand for this intricate craftsmanship, has pushed the craft to the edge of oblivion. By bringing this near-extinct art to the centre stage, we hope to save this invaluable cultural heritage. While speaking to some of these weavers one-on-one, they expressed their struggles. They have families to support, and Rs. 400 per day is simply not enough to sustain them. Some days they find work, while on others, they do not. Three out of five artisans said they are seriously considering changing their profession. Among those affected are Sheikh Khadim Ali, Sheikh Raju, and Sohan Bimal.

Demand

The demand for Parsi Gara embroidery has declined over the years, partly due to the low birth rate within the Parsi community and partly because of the time-intensive nature of the craft. Given the intricate detailing, these garments are reserved for special occasions. Sarees and dupattas start at approximately Rs. 12,000 and can go up to Rs. 1,20,000. The more elaborate the design, the longer it takes to create, which in turn increases the cost.

Future

Sadhna Haiswal, who runs a small Parsi Gara workshop, expressed her hopes for the craft’s revival. “I have a lot of hope for the revival of karigari, and I know that many dwindling weaves in the past have survived due to the love and appreciation of saree lovers over the years,” she said.

—     She is an internationally acclaimed curator, artist, and journalist.