Sameer Bawa’s taste buds are tantalised by the Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours of Cafe Mez

If I say that there is a real dearth of Middle Eastern restaurants in Delhi/NCR, I am confident that there would hardly be anybody who would accuse me of exaggeration. There are only a handful of eateries and I am surprised why, over the years,  Levantine food concepts have not captured the imagination of restaurateurs. After spending a few years in Dubai, I can safely say that Indians have a palate for Middle Eastern flavours and textures and it’s only a matter of time before the cuisine becomes a rage in India. Thankfully, concepts like the newly opened Cafe Mez in DLF Cyberhub, Gurgaon reinforce my point and give my ‘Arabic food’ deprived body some respite.

I visited Cafe Mez a few days ago and was immediately transported to a different world as soon as I stepped into the restaurants. Large windows which allowed abundant natural light, casual yet comfortable seating and a soothing blue & white colour scheme made it seem that I could very easily be eating at a cafe in Beirut, dining at a Greek restaurant in Athens or enjoying a Lebanese meal in Dubai. Well, that was the impression if I looked at the optics in isolation.

“I wanted to create a cafe where you could enjoy great breakfast options from the Middle East to the Mediterranean and, at the same time, use the freshest of ingredients to create a friendly cuisine throughout the day”, says Ashish Dev Kapur (co-owner, Cafe Mez). Super-talented chef Megha Kohli is at the helm of affairs in the kitchen. I have known Megha from her time at Lavaash by Saby and she comes in with a lot of pedigree. She has an individual style and most of the preparations on the menu are a nifty amalgamation of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean elements. Almost all the dishes dance on the periphery of authenticity due to a unique twist. Most of the preparations carefully thread the needle between creativity and authentic flavours. And I shall explain how.

We started with the Muhammara, Gazan guac and Fattoush salad. Red peppers, walnuts and pomegranate molasses are the main ingredients for a Muhammara along with some olive oil and spices but I loved the way the dip is decorated with black olives and cucumber peel. Even without that, the dish would have been complete but I loved that little touch. Also, when you look at a Fattoush salad, in its original form, it is toasted pita or khubz with mixed greens, tomatoes, cucumber, peppers and onions drizzled with sumac and pomegranate molasses. Chef Megha’s version is sans the toasted pita and drizzled with lemon herb dressing and feta which adds the Mediterranean element to it. I must confess that, at an individual level, I missed the toasted pita in the mix of things and feel that a fattoush is incomplete without it. The Gazan guac though was a stunning preparation. So unique, so subtle but yet so familiar.

Next up was the Bacon and egg pide. I have sampled that before during a meal at Lavaash by Saby a few years ago and had very high expectations. It was that and much more. It is chef Megha’s take on  Georgian bread with an egg and cheese at the core topped with generous chunks of bacon. When you cut through the bread, the runny egg yolk oozes out of imprisonment and lusciously laces the bread. Gastronomic heaven! For the mains, we requested the Chicken Shawarma roll and the Iranian lamb koobideh. The shawarma was decent with succulent chunks of chicken and pickle engulfed in a pita and served with fries but the showstopper was the Koobideh. Flavourful and juicy ground lamb kebabs on a bed of thin bread with a side of spiced onions and Tzaziki. Absolutely brilliant. Every bite is an experience in itself. One prep that is definitely for the Gods.

I culminated the meal on a sweet note with some Ponchikis, an American doughnut filled with Nutella or rose-scented custard. It’s a serving of two ponchikis and I chose one of each. Best decision ever as the custard and chocolate provided a great contrast. All in all, we had a fabulous meal. The restaurant has a well-stocked bar and you can have a lazy afternoon out with some cocktails or savour your favourite bottle of wine with the lovely food. The service orientation of the staff is also top-notch and they would ensure that you have a pleasant dining experience. As I was stepping out of the restaurant, my taste buds couldn’t thank me enough for the tantalising play of flavours and textures. I made silent promises to myself that I shall be back soon. Very soon!