The iconic Bukhara of ITC Maurya has completed 35 years. Neeti Nigam meets the team that has made this restaurant a one-stop destination for food connoisseurs from across the world
If there is one word that could make any world renowned chef who has visited India get talking on Indian food, it is dal Bukhara. The name stands synonymous to dal makhani for global chefs who plan their Indian trips with two things in mind — a visit to Taj Mahal and ITC Bukhara.
The iconic restaurant of ITC Maurya has completed 35 years in the business. In these last glorious 35 years, the team at Bukhara has served guests like Bill Clinton and Arnold Schwarzenegger. For Indian food connoisseurs it has been the only destination to savour Indian food. High profile guests have given this place an identity in the hospitality world. In the late 80s, Gandhi family came to dine at Bukhara. The restaurant was half blocked and the guests were impatient for entry. It was later that the manager informed them about their special guests and the reason for delay.
Kapil Sekri of Fratelli wines, who has been a regular at Bukhara, shares, “I don’t remember when I first dined here but Bukhara is one place where my family always dines. I was a kid when the Gandhis were dining inside the restaurant, I felt elated. I shared it with friends that I eat at places where only high profile customers come.” Sekri is now 40-year-old and a patron of Bukhara. “My wife is a vegetarian and she loves the veg tikkas here. My kids love to gorge on murgh malai kebab and sikandari raan,” he adds.
Most think that the restaurant’s name has been taken from the region Bukhara but it’s not true. Bukhara means a lucky place and over the years it has indeed become a lucky haven for its guests.
Over these years, Bukhara has consistently managed to attract new guests and retained patrons. The reason is its ambience that exudes warmth and of course, food. Executive chef JP Singh has been associated with Bukhara for 23 years. He says, “The restaurant was one-of-its-kind as it honoured the authentic food of the North West Frontier, the cuisine of the nomads. The chefs did extensive research on it and perfected it in the kitchen. This cuisine also goes well with alcohol. We don’t compromise on quality. Specification of each meat is done properly. If we are preparing tandoori jhinga, we ensure the weight of the prawn should not be less that 100 gms. One of the reasons that our kebabs are a hit is due to the succulent meat and right balance spices used for marination.”
The menu is short and crisp and hasn’t changed in all these years. “We want chefs to focus on food only and didn’t want to dilute the authenticity,” says chef adding that he might add a dish or two in the menu soon. The interiors and uniform of the waiters too, are the same. Fifty seven-year-old Shishpal has worked as a waiter here for 31 years. “I have seen the big shots savouring food here. They have loved the rugged interiors and didn’t mind eating by hand, a Bukhara culture of bringing people closer to their meal. We also help them with aprons so that their dress doesn’t get untidy while eating,” says Shishpal who reminiscences meeting head of the states. He adds, “My favourite is Bill Clinton who mixed up very well with us. As the president, he came here in 2000 and partied at Bukhara. He is humble and whenever he visits India, he is always here to dine. We had a platter in his name (Bukhara has discontinued the platters).”
Aroma of Bukhara’s authentic dishes keeps bringing back its old customers. “Recently, an NRI woman visited the restaurant with her husband. She got nostalgic and broke down. She told us that as a kid, she used to come here with her parents,” says manager Arjun Deep Shad.
Bukhara was launched at a time when foreign cuisines has started coming to India. “like you can’t take away melody from the Indian music, same ways, Indians will always remain passionate for their indigenous flavours,” says the chef who doesn’t feel unhappy when his team members resigns.
“I see them as ambassadors of Bukhara. They will move ahead to other eateries and popularise our crafted cuisine. I feel good food and culture should spread across all corners,” adds he.
To celebrate the glorious 35 years, Bukhara will host a special festival between August 2 and 11. General manager, Anil Chadha says, “Bukhara is an institution in itself and this celebration would honour each of our patrons for their support.”
For the record
Since its inception in 1978, Bukhara has sold :
Over 10 lakh murgh malai kebabs
Over 25 lakh dal Bukhara
Over 15 lakh seekh kebab
Over five lakh naan Bukhara — which is equal to 50 lakh regular naans
Over four lakh phirnis
