After bandhgalas, breeches and achkans, designer Raghavendra Rathore is reinventing the dhoti. He will be presenting different looks with the garment at the forthcoming IBFW. He chats with Divya Kaushik about bringing out relics from our ancestral wardrobes, making them fashionable and designing the look for Fawad Khan in Khoobsurat
Only a few from the fashion fraternity have made traditional Indian wear a classic statement globally and one of them is Raghavendra Rathore. After the classic revival of Jodhpuri bandhgala, achkan and breeches, the designer is now reinventing the dhoti. The designer who will be showcasing his collection at the Indian Bridal Fashion Week (IBFW) to begin from August 7, has worked on several looks with dhoti. He shares, “Every once in a while I have chosen to highlight heritage clothing such as the Jodhpuri bandhgala, breeches and the classic Jodhpuri achkan through meticulous fashion push so that the masses can feel the impact. This year we are proud to bring out another relic from our ancestral wardrobes — the classic fluid dhoti as the forerunner of the collection. The tailored classical Rathore bandhgala and the bandhgala achkan are paired with the flowing dhoti.”
The use of kantha, zardozi and bugle bead embroidery with accents of sequin, crystals and stones give the collection a modern vintage look. There is gold thread and pearl embroidery details on women ensembles like bandhgalas paired with Jodhpur pants.
lehenga skirts reinvent the look of the modern day bride. The colour palette is a play of vibrant shades. On what makes dhoti a classic style statement, Rathore says, “Dhoti adds the right mix of drama and aplomb to an outfit. Classic clothing has the knack for transcending time and place and it doesn’t fall in any category. The beauty of it is that it can be accessible to a large audience. Heritage is a treasure trove from which inspiration can be extracted to find a place in the fashion fraternity across the world. Dhoti and its drapes have been used by designers across the world as an inspiration for various silhouettes. I am proud to bring out relics from our ancestral wardrobes and make them fashionable, wearable and most importantly part of the modern Indian society.”
He adds, “Embroidered bandhgalas are paired with silk dhotis draped in styles from across the country, adding a dramatic flair to the whole ensemble. Another look we are showcasing is the dhoti with long waistcoat and kurta. Our attempt has been to unify the art of draping from all corners of India. Our brand is known for its details and the dhoti will be no stranger to this with niceties such as intricate embroidery on the hem and beautiful geometric hand-woven designs. Mostly hand-woven silk fabrics have been used to support the weavers from our NGO partners, there are dhotis with brocade and a lot of velvet has been incorporated in this collection.”
Rathore has also designed the look for Pakistani actor Fawad Khan for his forthcoming movie Khoobsurat. “The effortless looks for the movie Khoobsurat have been created meticulously with careful details like the folded cuffs and accessories to bring out the appropriate aesthetics. All clothes were made for all seasons with an emphasis on summer and a dash of colour. The ideology of bespoke design not only translates into creating unique visuals for the actor on celluloid but also register the aesthetics of the look as a reference point for the audience. The attempt is to democratise fashion which eventually percolates into trends, just as we have done earlier with breeches in the movie Oh My God,” says the designer.
